Almost There

Almost There (promo #1) from Almost There on Vimeo.

Dan Rybicky, a friend and former professor, is presently compiling a number of promos showcasing local Indiana artist Peter Anton. While in Chicago I had the pleasure of studying under Dan during my time in the Midwest. I learned of his time working with Martin Scorsese, his plans of running for office in Gary, Indiana (which he intends to rename "Michael"), and above all his infectious passion with documentary filmmaking. More than any other professor I have him to thank for my interest in this field.

That said, It is great to see Dan getting out a few shorts on this character. I remember talking with him about his plans to expand the project feature length, so be on the lookout.

Until then make sure to check out Peter Anton's exhibition if you are in Chicago. Co-curated by Dan Rybicky and Aaron Wickenden.

-BLOCHEAD

Sex In A Tent

Yes, this is a real book.

-BLOCHEAD

The Cure for Stagnation

I finally decided to close the book on the Mt. Charleston cave. After falling off the last move twice today I realized that I was swimming against the current. As the pads and people abandoned the cave I found my motivation had gone with them. The solo hike, redundant movement, and the long rests between burns had reached a tipping point. After almost two months to the day since my introduction to the cave I slogged my enormous pad back down the trail and into my car. Time for a change.

I'm surprisingly psyched to get back in the gym and train for some fall sandstone. A lot of things could change in the next few weeks so I don't really have a "must send" list, but here are a couple things I'm jazzed to try.

Wet Dream Right, V11
The Fountainhead, V9
Tailpipe, V9
Spittin' Vemon, V9
Super Slap, V7
Desert Rain, V10
Slice N Dice, V9

I've been on most of these before so it will be fun to get acquainted with the movement again.

The two I am most excited about (Wet Dream and The Fountainhead) are located in Black Velvet Canyon, known mainly for it's moderate multi-pitch mixed climbing. I've never been back there bouldering, only once to climb Prince of Darkness, an amazing 6 pitch 5.10c with great exposure. I vaguely remember some people climbing on WD while hiking out. It is an amazing, proud boulder.

Here is the only footage I could find of the problem. It's not very high quality and the climber is actually doing the heinous V12 version, but it's better than nothing.

Short Evening Sesh in BV Canyon from Ethan Pringle on Vimeo.

-BLOCHEAD

Further Reading

A couple blogs worth reading:

Tents Are Hard: A new blog from an adventurous female climber, backpacker, vegetarian, white water rafter, outdoor educator, and overall eco-badass. Topics discussed include insight and personal experience with outdoor gear, climbing, food, rafting, and education.

High Places: The reflections of climbing inspiration Steph Davis. What makes this blog great is its diversity. Steph covers both the unthinkable (free soloing, BASE soloing) and mundane (vegan recipes, living out of a truck) with such humility and practical experience that the mundane becomes inspiring and the unthinkable becomes real. This blog captures the essence of a climber, but is accessible to any free spirit.

-BLOCHEAD

Alpine's Last Stand - Mt. Charleston

The Aspen leaves are changing from green to gold at elevation. It's cooler and darker longer. I have one more line to keep me preoccupied until the temperature makes the final push into sandstone season. Though not the hardest in the cave it does weigh in as the longest. From jug to jug it's 25 hand movements over roughly 30 feet of ground. I am almost certain no one else is climbing up there anymore, and with only 3 pads left I have to climb 75% of the problem (route) padless without a spot.

I was actually relieved to fall at the final move twice this evening. I don't think I'm ready to be done with this cave, but with the cooler temperatures creeping in it's easier to shift focus to other areas.

Until then however, you will find me alone in the cave, lying on a duct taped crashpad watching the light glance off the aspen leaves.

-BLOCHEAD

Rigging Up Shade in the Man Cave - Mt. Charleston

Had a good morning session at the now dubbed 'Man Cave' yesterday with Craig. I managed to finish off Brazilian Wax V10, but not before rigging up some strategic shade for the blinding lip encounter. I didn't have my camera on me so excuse the cell phone photo, but I had to get a picture of this thing.


Only one more exit left to finish off before it's time to start looking to sandstone next month. Meanwhile the cave is sorely lacking pads, so it looks like the next project is a no fall mission.

-BLOCHEAD

The Ernest Origin of the Ironic Moustache?

While organizing, photographing and listing a number of baseball cards from 1972-1991 I recognized a look I saw all too much living in Chicago's Wicker Park neighborhood: The baseball cap and moustache combo.







Are today's too-cool-for-any-sports-other-than-riding-a-fixed-gear-to-the-bar hipsters actually influenced by late 20th century professional atheletes? Talk about irony.

-BLOCHEAD

UPDATE: Reel Rock Tour - Vegas

Updated info on the Reel Rock Film Tour location for the Las Vegas showing:

Thursday October 7, 2010
7:00 PM

Clark County Library
1401 E. Flamingo Road
Las Vegas, NV 89119

More details here.

-BLOCHEAD

A Day, a Night, and a Crown

The price of sending. Worth it every time.

My timeline for the last three days breaks down like this:

Tuesday - Photographed 12 weddings over 16 hours, from 8:00 AM to midnight.

Wednesday - Drove to Mt. Charleston at 10:30 AM. Parked at 11:00. Made it to the cave around 11:30. Warmed up at noon. Sent Crown of Swords second go of the day. Hiked back down. Showered. Went into work until 12:30 AM.

Thursday - Woke up at 6:30 AM. Left for work by 7:00. Drove into work to finish editing photos. Drove home. Began writing this post.

I thought about resting, taking some time to think, but all would be lost. There is something fervent and jittery ricocheting inside my head that won't last long. No, this is exactly the time to share a few thoughts on a huge personal breakthrough in hopes that the psych will infect, spread, and motivate others. Even one makes it all worthwhile.

Tuesday night was not supposed to be. Maybe it was a test, but I was only scheduled to work until 5:00 PM. No photographer for the night shift? A fat midwestern couple and a mail order bride from Siberia and it's midnight. I can hardly think at the wheel. The project is on my mind, in thoughts as I wind up in bed, unsure how I got there or if things that need to be locked are left unsatisfied.

The next morning I feel light. Too light. Dehydrated, sore from wearing a camera all night like a necklace. Eat, drink. I don't harbor much confidence for this session, but I have to go. How could I stand up Mt. Charleston? The drive seems easier, as if I am solidifying. Good tunes and air conditioning. Half an hour in the car. Time to clear my head.

Stepping out of the car the trees and the wind embrace me once as I start the half hour march up the trail. Right around the first corner two old thin men in sweat-stained bandanas and long muddy white beards share a joint and smile as I walk up.

"G'Morning." I offer up.
"Getting better by the minute," one of them smiles back in that way old men have that put you at ease as a kid.

The trail is familiar to me now. I see a few bigger rocks out of place, a new cigarette butt, a worn patch where someone rested. Before long the cave comes into view. My nerves are stretched. Sweating, I can all but run up the hill, as if the problem might have disappeared.

Still there. Good.

I am too impatient to warm up, but too cautious not to. Relax. Let the muscles remember everything. I warmed up on the exit. The movements I had fallen off 8 times before from the start. They are not easy, but powerful and precise. The rock feels inviting, still cool from the night before.

It's time for the first burn. Doubts, intimidation, pressure all swirling around. Once the start holds are in my hand they all melt away. Just focus and movement. Coming up to the final crux I hit a hold slightly off, keep going. I hit the next one a bit off as well. That's all it takes. The next sensation is the crashpad under my feet. Make that 9 times from the start.

Being alone, I've found that the second go is the hardest. It is hard to gauge when you feel rested versus when you are rested. The volatile emotion of your first botched attempt is a fresh brand on the brain. Heart racing. Self inflicted pressure comes with the realization of diminishing returns. This is probably your last good go.

I never know when it's time, but it comes. Almost as if I am waiting on hold, drifting, until something answers. The second go feels worse than the first. The holds feel smaller and the pump sets in quicker. Just keep going. I hit the same hold just a bit off again, but the bump caught three fingers just right. Bumped again to make an even four, and found myself robotically executing the exit. Autopilot is not always a good thing however, and I almost blew it, grabbing a non-hold before lurching to the right one, and overgripping to the top.

All alone, not a soul in sight or sound, I cheered and screamed and listened to my voice echo off the limestone walls.

Regardless of grades, of scorecards, of sandbagging or inflating and even regardless of personal blogs like this, the feeling of finishing something you have worked so hard for, and carrying that progress inside yourself is something universal to climbers of all abilities and disciplines. This is what it's all about.

-BLOCHEAD

Savage's Switzerland

I have another post planned for today, but saw this video and had to share before heading into work. Alex Savage just got back from a world bouldering dream tour, and has begun putting footage together of the trip. Here is his first installment from Switzerland. Keep an eye out for more videos from his website in the future, especially Rocklands.

Swanky Swizzy from Savage Climbing on Vimeo.

-BLOCHEAD

Change of Command - A New Wildhorse

This morning I had the privilege of serving as the official Squadron photographer for the 1st Squadron 221st Cavalry, more commonly known as the Wildhorse Squadron. Today marked the leave of Commander Colonel Cunningham and the assumption his position by his successor.

"The 1-221 CAV, or Wildhorse Squadron, is a Nevada Army National Guard Armored Reconnaissance Squadron. We were ordered to active duty in April of 2009 (this year) and will deploy to Afghanistan this summer to provide security for the Provincial Reconstruction Teams (PRT's) in country." Taken from the Wildhorse Squadron blog.

This past April the Squadron returned safely to the United States. They suffered no casualties.

Here are some more unedited photos from the event:





-BLOCHEAD

Hank Aaron Vs. Charizard Vs. Eleanor Roosevelt

My Dad is part collector, part minimalist, and entirely conflicted. With a move in the near future he is making a push to rid the house of things he doesn't want to move again, while still finding time to pick up a couple hundred first day of issue envelopes here and there.

So begins the long process of attempting to sell off everything in the house through eBay, Glyde, and Craigslist.

In the early stages we decided to test the market on three fronts: Baseball cards, Pokemon cards, and first day of issue envelopes.

1. Baseball Cards

My Dad's collection of baseball cards is in the thousands, primarily ranging from 1968-1991. Roberto Clemente, Nolan Ryan, WIllie Mays, and the Hank Aaron pictured above are just a few (and I do mean just a few) of the many stars he has collected over the years.

2. Pokemon Cards

This collection bug must have also infected my brother and I for a bit when we were younger. Exploring the closets and under beds I found a bunch of colorful cards of various monsters breathing fire, shooting electricity, shrouded in smoke and so on. I had completely forgotten that my brother and I used to collect these Pokemon cards, and decided to list a few or the cards I remembered to be "cool" (to a 5th grader) to see if they would bite.

3. First Day of Issue Envelopes

Similar but more obscure than collecting stamps, these envelopes are unique in that they celebrate nearly every aspect of American history and popular culture. We chose a few from the 1960's including an Eleanor Roosevelt in near mint condition.

Fast forward two weeks.

Charizard: Sold for $26.99
1972 Hank Aaron: Sold for $1.90
1963 Eleanor Roosevelt: No sale.

If you would have asked me two weeks ago I would have given the exact opposite prediction. I guess no matter how much something is worth it's worthless without a customer.

-BLOCHEAD

Heavy is the Head - Mt. Charleston

Cover art for the novel Crown of Swords by Robert Jordan.

I remember my first day at the cave. Late July, 105 degrees in the valley. I lugged a Mad Rock triple pad, my camera, a tripod, shoes, water, and all the other accessories up the half hour approach. Craig suggested we stop several times along the way. I thought he was just being considerate, and while that was part of it he kept saying that he didn't want to overheat. That the project he was working took every ounce of power and endurance, and that he didn't want to redline on the hike up.

I shot Craig on the first ascent of that project that day, now known as Crown of Swords (Named by Bill McLemore).

Now, nearly two months later, those words I half-listened to while wiping sweat off my face are resonating as I spend entire sessions focused on this problem/route.

Today I spent 2 hours in the cave alone and only tried the line 4 times. I fell off the last hard move to the jug 3 times, and on the next attempt failed to get past even the first crux. The diminishing returns with each attempt on this beast are shocking.

It's easy to see now why the two people who have done this line are stymied when the question of a grade comes up. It is truly a hybrid of sport climbing and bouldering.

Crown of Swords breaks down into a hard V9 section that links through 3 V4 movements into a V8 with a very precise, powerful redpoint crux at the very end. Originally this link was considered low end V11, and it still may be, but because it is so long people have taken to giving it a Yosemite decimal grade, and by translation downgraded it because it is not thought to be 5.14.

There has been no consensus yet due to lack of traffic, but people are saying everything from V10, hard V10, V10/11, Soft V11 5.13d/5.14a, harder than this, easier than that and so on. It's great to have these discussions and comparisons and serves as one more example of the delicate and fickle nature of grading a young problem.

I'm hoping to get my fitness to a point where I'll be able to send in the near future, and then maybe I'll be able to weigh in with less speculation and more observation.

-BLOCHEAD

Reel Rock Film Tour

Coming to Vegas a month from today (10/7). It doesn't specify which library yet, but I'm sure there will be more info toward the end of the month. If you're in the area check it out. It's free.

Full tour list.

In the meantime get some sweaty tips from the official trailer.

-BLOCHEAD

Sandbaggin' 101

With the fall season knocking at the door, and a slew of proposed hard problems outside the Boulder bubble everyone is looking to get back/stay in shape. Planning road trips, setting goals for the coming year, etc. That's the fun part.

The hard part comes when you actually buy that month membership at the gym, follow regimented work outs, stick to a schedule, watch what you eat, blah blah blah. But that's hard work, right? Why do that when you could be sucking on a tasty cig and pounding a Pabst? Lucky for you I've assembled a list of things you can do to prepare for the fall season without going to the gym and still make everyone think you are a super bad-ass/tough guy/hardbro/hardbabe in 10 mega east steps!

And it's free!

Just print out this sick ass guide (or copy it down with a pen if you don't have a printer, or memorize it if you don't have a pen) and duct tape it to the ceiling of your van/jeep/tent/Coleman two burner/case of beer/girlfriend/boyfriend/crag dog/crashpad for best results!

Sandbaggin' 101:

1. Your unknown local crag is always harder than where you are currently bouldering. Always.

Example: "No way is that thing a 10! That would be like V6 at best back in Indiana."

2. Your new mantra is "Link-up." The great thing about link-ups is they are not defined. Technically two moves can be a link.

Example: "Dude, I made fatty link ups on Martini Right today. It's totally gunna go!"

3. "Hard" is not an option on your 8a scorecard.

4. Consequently "Hard for the grade," is not in your vocabulary. Period.

5. Your proj is always harder than anyone else in the room, but make sure you either choose something obscure for the area to throw off the scent.

Example: "My hard trad project back east." When you're in Bishop. "This amazing new V13 in Hueco." When you're in Zion.

6. Pretentious "poetry" in lieu of actual comments on your 8a scorecard.

Example: Jamie Emerson on I Comb My Hair Like God:

"The austere sun descends above the fen,
an orange cyclops-eye, scorning to look
longer on this landscape of chagrin;
feathered dark in thought, I stalk like a rook,
brooding as the winter night comes on."

7. There is no question that you would have sent if it wasn't for that damn finger tweak/hangover/shoes/hot babe/dude/skin/greasy holds/weather/bank account/lack of weed/spot/dab/rock/move.

8. Shirts are never allowed, have never been allowed, and will never be allowed for dudes, especially if babes are present, regardless of temperature, circumstance, or time of day. Dudettes are to remain badass by hiking problems in front of as many guys as possible and always calling said problems soft.

9. If you aren't strong enough to climb it, that doesn't mean you can't still downgrade it! Try it out! you know Jade is V12 at best.

10. The next go will forever be your best go.

Now go out there and show the climbing community what you're (not) made of!

-BLOCHEAD

The Whole 9 - Mt. Charleston

Finished off the 6th and final V9 (Flat Spin 360) in the cave yesterday. This line is pretty contrived, but the movement is irresistible and I couldn't just leave this line all alone waiting for a second ascent.

As for future projects I wasn't sure what to work on after sending, but started getting the transition movements down for Crown of Swords and Brazilian Wax and was surprised how quickly the sequence came. Both of these problems are over 20 moves long (only counting hands, the foot beta is nearly double that) and broken up into 3 distinct sections, or two longer problems with a meager rest. I'm pretty intimidated to start working up to a redpoint because there is so much microbeta that you have to fire off perfectly, and so many chances to blow it, but that's what draws me to a problem in the first place.

With less than two months left in Vegas it's time to get to work on finishing some things before packing up for Texas!

-BLOCHEAD

Friday Inspiration - Carrie Cooper

I got an email yesterday that got me thinking about my favorite climbers. My heroes. When I first started climbing I was amazed and inspired by the big names, the big grades, the big feats. El Cap twice in a day, the new V15 in Switzerland or some crazy free solo.

When I think about it now, while those accomplishments are still amazing, they are not what I admire in a climber anymore. They seem too selfish (especially free soloing). Taking a life long approach to this sport, and seeing people well into their 40's still climbing 5.14 and V10 has stirred a deeper admiration in climbers with full time families, jobs, and lives outside of climbing.

One such person that comes to mind immediately is Carrie Cooper. I had a chance to meet Carrie in Priest Draw this past Spring, and was thoroughly impressed with her lack of ego, and a quiet confidence that seems to be a running trait in stronger, seasoned climbers.

Earlier today I checked her blog to find that not only is she well into her pregnancy, but she was climbing hard through her first trimester!

Here is an excerpt from her post on Monday:

"2. Climbing was the only time I didn't feel nauseous. If it were up to my body I would have stayed on the couch and ate food but thankfully my will was taking notes. Activity fights the nausea, and holds the fatigue at bay.

There are a few catches. I was able to still climb v-hard till I was about 3 months pregnant. My core was still good BUT I had to climb in the morning AND schedule a nap almost directly after. I don't remember being this tired with my first pregnancy but I'll refer to truth #1."

So if you find yourself complaining about a hangover, bad skin, temps, the approach, or anything else get over it!

Read Carrie's entire post HERE.

-BLOCHEAD

Center Start Done! - Mt. Charleston

Managed to make a quick trip out to the cave yesterday to finish up Landing Strip. By the time I reached the cave it was noon. By the time I was warmed up and got on from the start it was nearly half past. I thought the heat would make the final crimp crux a lot more difficult, but I was surprised at how fluid the climb felt. Definitely the best movement of all the 9's in the cave. So fun!

While topping out I could hardly believe it was over. It might be due to the beta, or maybe I'm getting accustomed to climbing in the cave, but this exit felt the easiest of the three. I know it's not, but it was a strange feeling. That does it for the center start, there is one more V9 (Flat Spin 360) to finish up and then on to the harder stuff.

For those that missed it here is Andrew Spencer on Landing Strip. One of the best things about this problem is that it is conducive to a variety of body types making it really fun to decipher (my end beta and Andrew's look nothing alike).

Landing Strip V9 First Ascent, Mt. Charleston from BLOCHEAD on Vimeo.

-BLOCHEAD