Tuesday, September 28, 2010

The Cure for Stagnation

I finally decided to close the book on the Mt. Charleston cave. After falling off the last move twice today I realized that I was swimming against the current. As the pads and people abandoned the cave I found my motivation had gone with them. The solo hike, redundant movement, and the long rests between burns had reached a tipping point. After almost two months to the day since my introduction to the cave I slogged my enormous pad back down the trail and into my car. Time for a change.

I'm surprisingly psyched to get back in the gym and train for some fall sandstone. A lot of things could change in the next few weeks so I don't really have a "must send" list, but here are a couple things I'm jazzed to try.

Wet Dream Right, V11
The Fountainhead, V9
Tailpipe, V9
Spittin' Vemon, V9
Super Slap, V7
Desert Rain, V10
Slice N Dice, V9

I've been on most of these before so it will be fun to get acquainted with the movement again.

The two I am most excited about (Wet Dream and The Fountainhead) are located in Black Velvet Canyon, known mainly for it's moderate multi-pitch mixed climbing. I've never been back there bouldering, only once to climb Prince of Darkness, an amazing 6 pitch 5.10c with great exposure. I vaguely remember some people climbing on WD while hiking out. It is an amazing, proud boulder.

Here is the only footage I could find of the problem. It's not very high quality and the climber is actually doing the heinous V12 version, but it's better than nothing.

Short Evening Sesh in BV Canyon from Ethan Pringle on Vimeo.


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