I finally decided to close the book on the Mt. Charleston cave. After falling off the last move twice today I realized that I was swimming against the current. As the pads and people abandoned the cave I found my motivation had gone with them. The solo hike, redundant movement, and the long rests between burns had reached a tipping point. After almost two months to the day since my introduction to the cave I slogged my enormous pad back down the trail and into my car. Time for a change.
I'm surprisingly psyched to get back in the gym and train for some fall sandstone. A lot of things could change in the next few weeks so I don't really have a "must send" list, but here are a couple things I'm jazzed to try.
Wet Dream Right, V11
The Fountainhead, V9
Spittin' Vemon, V9
Super Slap, V7
Desert Rain, V10
Slice N Dice, V9
I've been on most of these before so it will be fun to get acquainted with the movement again.
The two I am most excited about (Wet Dream and The Fountainhead) are located in Black Velvet Canyon, known mainly for it's moderate multi-pitch mixed climbing. I've never been back there bouldering, only once to climb Prince of Darkness, an amazing 6 pitch 5.10c with great exposure. I vaguely remember some people climbing on WD while hiking out. It is an amazing, proud boulder.
Here is the only footage I could find of the problem. It's not very high quality and the climber is actually doing the heinous V12 version, but it's better than nothing.