tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41788505484974942052024-03-18T20:52:10.183-07:00BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.comBlogger318125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-72179953909225075672014-05-06T14:27:00.000-07:002014-05-06T14:27:05.177-07:00The Last PostI'm not sure what to write. I've never officially put a blog to sleep. Quick and painless is probably best, right? <div>
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BLOCHEAD is done. I won't be updating this site anymore, but that doesn't mean that I'll stop making videos and taking photos. If you want to see all of that and stay updated be sure to follow @maxmoorephoto on <a href="http://instagram.com/maxmoorephoto" target="_blank">Instagram</a> and like the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/MaxMoorePhotography" target="_blank">Facebook</a> page as well. </div>
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It's been fun, let's do it again sometime. Just not here...</div>
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BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-23558301606744532082014-02-20T21:17:00.003-08:002014-02-20T21:18:27.808-08:00Amateur Hour Does anyone still read this thing? I doubt it. But if you do and you're wondering what I've been up to since November 7th, the answer is this working on this goddamned video. <div>
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I made this entirely on my own with the exception of some filming. It wasn't until arriving back in Vegas that I realized I had to scrub through nearly 80 gigs of semi-unusable nonsense with no story outline, no ideas, and no help. Oh, and it was pretty much all shot on an iPhone.</div>
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This is my first attempt at making a feature-length film and the process could not have been more stressful. I had every technical issue imaginable during editing and exporting including my computer dying completely without notice. The film was nearly finished an was not backed up. I was sure that all those months would be for nothing, but somehow the bastard made it out alive.</div>
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The lack of vision, foresight, footage, and quality of this film cause me to see red. I can't even watch it anymore. That said I am happy with what I made out of the materials available and I think the heart of it shows through.</div>
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With great relief I'm happy to dump this onto the internet forever and be done with it.</div>
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I hope you enjoy watching this, wait what am I talking about? I don't care at all if you enjoy it or not.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/87240505" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="400"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/87240505">Amateur Hour - Rocklands 2013</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/maxmoorephoto">Max Moore Photography</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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And please for the love of God don't watch it on your phone or in the thumbnail.</div>
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BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-10141938845111500692013-11-07T19:27:00.000-08:002013-11-08T00:25:06.944-08:00Abaddon - VideoPretty proud of this one. I hope you enjoy the video.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/78879689" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="450"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/78879689">Max Moore - Abaddon V12</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/maxmoorephoto">Max Moore Photography</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
<br />BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-2736455233846820912013-11-01T10:37:00.000-07:002013-11-01T10:40:33.924-07:00Liberty Herring on Scare Tactics - VideoI wanted to post this video in a separate entry. Hope it gets you psyched. Please don't watch this little thumbnail though, full screen that shiz.<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="181" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/78128159" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="400"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/78128159">Liberty Herring - Scare Tactics V10</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/maxmoorephoto">Max Moore Photography</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-66764523636946929002013-11-01T10:32:00.002-07:002013-11-01T10:33:10.835-07:00October in PhotosOctober was a great month. There is a lot of development going on here and the motivation from the community seems geared toward bouldering for once.<br />
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On the 21st I sent what I thought would be my season long project <i>Abaddon</i> V12, which I have no problem spraying about because it meant a lot to me. Reaching the top of that boulder was a physical and mental breakthrough for me. I will always be able to look back to the process and the send as a source of courage.<br />
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Yes, there will be video out soon. Here are some photos:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgTu8UFNxjIdegkU7IJ9nKqG7Xk4JHz2soE7KkDMZDrTrq-EOprcjxP9ZGUnYQfWyrtK1ZPjrHrTXaStsCxhiSbzGcIeSW3sSr_NzAD9o4km8IIItvC84CibBGiN3XCYM4UEGBN-LXz884/s1600/AB1WM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgTu8UFNxjIdegkU7IJ9nKqG7Xk4JHz2soE7KkDMZDrTrq-EOprcjxP9ZGUnYQfWyrtK1ZPjrHrTXaStsCxhiSbzGcIeSW3sSr_NzAD9o4km8IIItvC84CibBGiN3XCYM4UEGBN-LXz884/s400/AB1WM.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moving to the crux hold of <i>Abaddon</i> V12.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEm3eYJR2bJSuayNYTY76ACGfe8bc3OSwWPpQD6EZXfoB3G4MEwScUF7zc2mqAXbAQ9onwBURuYpedJjiQdnSOXNViNHhzkROSKJS_YjdNNZ6x3hx6lNdwKmwkloPPIhZw4B1lBDyU1Gvi/s1600/AB2WM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEm3eYJR2bJSuayNYTY76ACGfe8bc3OSwWPpQD6EZXfoB3G4MEwScUF7zc2mqAXbAQ9onwBURuYpedJjiQdnSOXNViNHhzkROSKJS_YjdNNZ6x3hx6lNdwKmwkloPPIhZw4B1lBDyU1Gvi/s400/AB2WM.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Failure as meditation.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEievqryaucKOEaesKR6Jgfxu8Oykbv_D8f52sTM-d1jpkQ0K6aZyRqGFnCzJE-qzPEInZ-A1Kgvsczq40cwsPxFBiUoPXgk6ZoqVWmUu-WTZIdaGbk4jh76ZcHC4e9ZLAxMorhU8_F_NwkD/s1600/AB3WM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEievqryaucKOEaesKR6Jgfxu8Oykbv_D8f52sTM-d1jpkQ0K6aZyRqGFnCzJE-qzPEInZ-A1Kgvsczq40cwsPxFBiUoPXgk6ZoqVWmUu-WTZIdaGbk4jh76ZcHC4e9ZLAxMorhU8_F_NwkD/s400/AB3WM.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting up for the scariest move I've ever done.</td></tr>
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I've been posting a lot of media on my Facebook page lately so if you're a fan of this blog, or a fan of climbing photos/videos in general check it out and hit like <a href="http://facebook.com/maxmoorephotography" target="_blank">here</a>. It helps a lot!<div>
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On the 29th Lib sent <i>Scare Tactics </i>V10<i>, </i>one of her season goals as well.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ61LqGuGJYEPgt9ZDuUX7MYV3SNi-aXVD10Uyh_QZLIdsIbGIofMM7t4yjBzx3u8Y4Rd_c_YYKBceGoJo3NaIeepqifEdIbtvdvGMslKCm2WqHLX6DGSSltJWpPnN_BSxdgL_HtHxUee2/s1600/ST1WM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ61LqGuGJYEPgt9ZDuUX7MYV3SNi-aXVD10Uyh_QZLIdsIbGIofMM7t4yjBzx3u8Y4Rd_c_YYKBceGoJo3NaIeepqifEdIbtvdvGMslKCm2WqHLX6DGSSltJWpPnN_BSxdgL_HtHxUee2/s400/ST1WM.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Liberty Herring on <i>Scare Tactics</i> V10.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie0ZV63l6mzymHBTd5UXDcLIK8u2T_H-rk2SbOAkclOyjE8BebCSqlCqpz8PyGkZYWG885jHMveDTEXRfm-zDOE0l-252Nd94uHsXyTuzyk-HBseUHV_YIlTb5LxAC5W_3d9tXlNhTGjy8/s1600/ST2WM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie0ZV63l6mzymHBTd5UXDcLIK8u2T_H-rk2SbOAkclOyjE8BebCSqlCqpz8PyGkZYWG885jHMveDTEXRfm-zDOE0l-252Nd94uHsXyTuzyk-HBseUHV_YIlTb5LxAC5W_3d9tXlNhTGjy8/s400/ST2WM.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">More failure, more meditation.<br /><br /><br /></td></tr>
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This past week I participated in the annual Halloween comp at the local gym. It turned out to be a good set and almost 100 new boulders to train on. I won for advanced men and Lib held her title as female champ. Above all I love competing because it is always a great training day. <div>
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Onward to new projects!</div>
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BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-89107067623446317292013-10-03T17:03:00.002-07:002013-10-03T17:10:57.719-07:00Not Abaddon - VideoTomorrow I turn 26 and my health insurance runs out. Clearly a celebration is in order so yesterday I hiked out to Black Velvet Canyon to rope rehearse and eventually solo the 5.9+ top out of <i>Abaddon</i> V12.<br />
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As I swung my oversized pad over my soon to be uninsured back and shoulders I couldn't help but feel the annual surge of an existential crisis. My pack felt doubly weighted and each step seemed to rattle my head like a trashcan full of 8 balls. Angst aside, there was a cool and steady breeze sighing between those big gate-like walls, and there is nothing like a cool and steady breeze to push aside an existential crisis.<br />
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If I do one boulder this year it has to be this one, I thought. I would be happy with just this one. But for today I'll be happy to overcome the fear of hurling into that pit.<br />
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After a lot of time and more than a few broken holds I summoned the courage to get off the rope and just climb the damn thing. I felt surprised when the fear didn't come knocking. So surprised that it almost threw me. I ended up doing the top again easily, as if it were Potato Chips.<br />
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I thought a lot about the complete change in attitude toward the boulder after rehearsing it. It could be that I am just rehearsing aspects of my life right now, and when the time is right I won't even need a cool and steady breeze.<br />
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Pardon the bullshit, here's a video.<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/76103109" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/76103109">Not Abaddon</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/blochead">BLOCHEAD</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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As the weakest person to climb on this boulder I promise that this top out beta is the best around.<br />
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-BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-37620677499710360942013-09-25T17:13:00.000-07:002013-09-26T09:02:47.606-07:00The Subway - VideoI know that everyone is waiting for a Rocklands video, but here are some nice (chossy) limestone drop-offs instead. Since returning to Vegas I've repeated a couple hard things at The Subway, Mt. Charleston's summer bouldering hang. <i>Hold the Doors</i> was put up this past June by my buddy Craig. I got lucky and opened a standing project involving a very difficult undercling move into another undercling...in a roof. Sounds fun, right?<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="235" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/75441040" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="400"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/75441040">THE SUBWAY</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/blochead">BLOCHEAD</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-60872042759185911042013-09-13T08:43:00.003-07:002013-09-13T15:22:25.118-07:00Back in the USABack home! I went to Rocklands to climb a lot of boulders (check), but I found that the trip also had an unforeseen effect on my outlook and approach to bouldering. Maybe in the future I can better describe this, maybe not. Slogging through endless gigs of photos and footage will be a slow process, but be patient. It's coming. For now here is a smiling elephant I shot on my last day in Africa.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3B4DJg2HPJGvePS2hmWeHXTuWWAAQlD2qZLQZRVZ3cZwRw7BbBHklo6CSkGXkz7dEzgXzVIJrHxyhCNW_Zitu_TIvaJqgLt52IVgBRJIxcqZoyJ4DOXjQv7gseD9uvAIO0dH8AMoJk66g/s1600/happyelephant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3B4DJg2HPJGvePS2hmWeHXTuWWAAQlD2qZLQZRVZ3cZwRw7BbBHklo6CSkGXkz7dEzgXzVIJrHxyhCNW_Zitu_TIvaJqgLt52IVgBRJIxcqZoyJ4DOXjQv7gseD9uvAIO0dH8AMoJk66g/s400/happyelephant.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Living the dream.</td></tr>
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<br />BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-15174662489373968902013-07-09T03:29:00.003-07:002013-07-09T03:30:15.161-07:00Rocklands PhotosI posted a few photos from our adventure so far <a href="https://www.facebook.com/MaxMoorePhotography" target="_blank">here</a>. More bouldering photos to come.<br />
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-BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-14946704634924347852013-06-26T16:41:00.002-07:002013-06-26T18:14:45.517-07:00Ready for AfricaA few days ago I got an email from a friend of mine that I'll be staying with in Africa. As with most of his emails it was brief, candid, and to the point. It read:<br />
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I can't help but feel the same way. I've been training harder than ever for the past 3+ months specifically for this trip, not to mention all the hours compounded in the past years leading up to this. At this point there is nothing I can do that would make me any sronger. Some people have asked what I am planning on doing, or if I have specific goals. I do, but I'll spare you the ticklist for a more honest answer. I want to climb well and feel strong. I leave in one week on what will undoubtedly be a trip that I can't even wrap my head around, so I won't try. I'm excited to try my hardest, laugh, see new things, and soak everything in. And of course penguins.<br />
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That said I will try to stay connected and post small videos, pictures and other updates. This will be my last post here until we arrive, so if you are looking for updates between now and then let me shamelessly plug a few outlets where I will be constantly updating with photos and statuses.<br />
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@maxmoorephoto -<a href="http://instagram.com/maxmoorephoto" target="_blank">Instagram</a> and <a href="https://twitter.com/maxmoorephoto" target="_blank">Twitter</a> (I can assure lots of updates here, especially in the airports)<br />
<a href="https://www.facebook.com/MaxMoorePhotography" target="_blank">Max Moore Photography</a> - The facebook page where I will be dumping all of the photos taken periodically throughout the trip.<br />
And Max Moore on Vine if you're into that.<br />
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And if I don't hear from any of you :( then have a great summer!<br />
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-BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-82216123314304556662013-06-13T10:25:00.003-07:002013-06-13T10:25:40.812-07:00Getting WreckedThis workout really did it. Usually when I go to the gym I try pretty hard, but not hard enough to fail at my entire workout. Like all climbers I like to feel successful and send things. That is the natural urge that I have been fighting to suppress in the gym. In general I do a decent job of this, but I wanted to take my training to the next level for these last couple weeks. In a recent conversation with my buddy <a href="http://teamheerema.com/" target="_blank">Dave</a> he reminded me of this aspect, something he had read in a book by Dave MacLeod. I'll have to read that one sometime.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Failure never felt so good. I mean painful and monotonous. But worth it. Or something.</td></tr>
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This is just a basic workout with 3 sections: warm up, climbing portion, training portion. For my climbing portion I wanted to do a set of 4x4's that was at/above my limit. I chose problems that I could confidently reach the 3/4 mark but would be very difficult to send 4 times in a row. My results were an awesome amount of failure. I fell a lot at the 1/2 way or 3/4 mark on the harder problems and fell last move on the two easier ones a couple times. I ended up sending 25% of my efforts with one send consisting of a variation I improvised on the V12 at the top just to keep going (read: I cheated and made it V10/11).<br />
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Following the 4x4s I did an hour of hang boarding using the CWP plan followed by campusing and some core. It felt great to be pushing myself that hard and trying things out of my league. 3 weeks until I leave for Africa!<br />
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-BLOCHEAD<br />
<br />BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-64475462793728823962013-05-31T17:02:00.000-07:002013-05-31T17:02:45.990-07:00Alternate Wet Dream FootageMy good buddy PLT just sent me some footage from this past season he had of me sending the iconic <i>Wet Dream</i> V12. I thought this angle was great for beta since this problem can be tricky. Enjoy!<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="211" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/67436225" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="375"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/67436225">Max Moore climbs Wet Dream V12</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/blochead">BLOCHEAD</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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-BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-8954425651735630542013-05-27T13:30:00.001-07:002013-05-27T13:47:19.378-07:00Training ToolsThe following is a list of the tools I use most frequently when training for bouldering. I have refined this collection over a couple years and they all have proven useful and effective. In other words they are all worth buying and having if you are a gym rat like me.<br />
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I won't be going into too much detail about how to use most these things because they all seem pretty self explanatory, but if you have questions as always feel free to ask in the comment section. I'll be focusing more on why they work for me and help me become stronger.<br />
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1. <b>Wristwatch with stopwatch/interval feature</b> - I've had the same one for years and haven't even changed the battery on it yet. This is probably my #1 suggestion for people who want to take their training to another level. Timing rests and activity gives me a bearing on progression from week to week.<br />
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2. <b>Notebook</b> - Even if you are not on a regiment, buy one of these and start writing down your entire workout. This serves two invaluable functions for your climbing. First it provides a tangible reference for your progression over time. This takes out the anecdotal "I'm having a bad day/week/whatever" and replaces it with something you can check. You may feel like crap but looking back on a month ago you may actually be crushing your previous time/rep/etc. Second, a notebook keeps you on track. If you are writing down everything in your session or goals you have during your time at the gym the notebook will help you make better use of that time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqgpoOzBa_ENbZflQRrqSzgIpZSEdEq_S6YSAKUhFeYQk_qoVCpw_2GL5XtMPlX5aVO6vCDgJeynFB7hWtj7n1nU6slVoWetXG7QEi19xEjWmmX4CFzSUBgue-bq0G_zDoJcWH8i411GIv/s1600/IMG_2624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqgpoOzBa_ENbZflQRrqSzgIpZSEdEq_S6YSAKUhFeYQk_qoVCpw_2GL5XtMPlX5aVO6vCDgJeynFB7hWtj7n1nU6slVoWetXG7QEi19xEjWmmX4CFzSUBgue-bq0G_zDoJcWH8i411GIv/s400/IMG_2624.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And you can put stickers of your favorite stuff on it!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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3. <b>Weights</b> - Pretty standard. If you have a decent climbing facility they might have weights available for you. I'm not as lucky here so I bought my own. At the most I recommend the following plated weights: 2 10lb and 1 25lb. This gives you a good amount of options between 10-45lbs and they should be enough.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRmeCDn2wcl0yN8xIrcJaaFKt_HoJL2zl5GCC5DmVCzM9kxcUupBaup1tsGdF3fqwm4c3TxGwhz9hr1qFgDPxy3RUzUsSQlz0s7bv5FSWDDiItuU0bWcVLgwdO0SkvhhV-SkP5WTpqYmSy/s1600/IMG_2628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRmeCDn2wcl0yN8xIrcJaaFKt_HoJL2zl5GCC5DmVCzM9kxcUupBaup1tsGdF3fqwm4c3TxGwhz9hr1qFgDPxy3RUzUsSQlz0s7bv5FSWDDiItuU0bWcVLgwdO0SkvhhV-SkP5WTpqYmSy/s400/IMG_2628.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great all around tool. Hypergravity hangs, sit ups, general badassery.</td></tr>
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4. <b>Harness and Sling w/ Biner</b> - I only use my harness for weighted hangs (AND SPORT CLIMBING JK LOL) and the sling I use for a one handed hang assist while hangboard training and also for fastening the plates to my harness.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKiV7vXI70yq1zTH53nYQoEcBuJX45chazQBXpLUxMpO-E-As0CIXx0dXtvdZcC_sbSyAcvoAnVByM8JgJuUMR9AxrBcOE21FHDP5RTN6ZVxomUUgSnTH7JAVK0PzPWvnUB0Ztc-mzpuV/s400/IMG_2630.JPG" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seriously guys, what's a "one-hang"?</td></tr>
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5. <b>The Ivanko Super Gripper</b> - Yes, this spring-loaded torture device is absolutely Russian. And yes, you will love it. Primarily used by a niche sect of bodybuilders obsessed with grip strength, this thing has adjustable tension springs ranging from "not so bad" to "are you f*cking kidding me?!"<br />
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6. <b>The Ab Wheel</b> - If you decided to buy one thing off this list it should be this. It's like $10 and you will not regret it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNNbjjpe0qHpcPk3Ape1Q2Y0RI1t8FUv4xX1znYU0PIEHyEi6LmZ95xRuiBKCduc7P0GK0UoABqWyUND3PvuutSFK4BMAT0-WtrTQiAoBN2SU3MLiACFc-gRKT15GbyN0vMCR3EjMpVJue/s1600/IMG_2634.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNNbjjpe0qHpcPk3Ape1Q2Y0RI1t8FUv4xX1znYU0PIEHyEi6LmZ95xRuiBKCduc7P0GK0UoABqWyUND3PvuutSFK4BMAT0-WtrTQiAoBN2SU3MLiACFc-gRKT15GbyN0vMCR3EjMpVJue/s400/IMG_2634.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These were actually cut from scenes in <i>Zero Dark Thirty</i> for being too cruel and unusual.<br />
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7. <b>Ankle Weights</b> - I use these all the time. At least twice a week for various things. Front levers, leg lifts, even practicing holding swings on steep terrain. Great for a little resistance.<br />
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8. <b>10lb Weight Vest</b> -The only reason I specified 10lbs is because I used to have a 20lb and I did not find that it helped much. I use this sparingly, but it is great for a 4x4 once in a while when you want to feel like a superhero.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEuhyUbCIHLmYt7GeB5xvZckecEjzQilZLHTOm0z3G1f9-NbIqJNwdRxLSxHihBrdYnVUziNNTBnuvYSvD4db1bEREIxY6PkvWp_M9K60rBffwNaLC7JWfnIzBbhiCa3ikoLjMLgV7mbts/s1600/IMG_2632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEuhyUbCIHLmYt7GeB5xvZckecEjzQilZLHTOm0z3G1f9-NbIqJNwdRxLSxHihBrdYnVUziNNTBnuvYSvD4db1bEREIxY6PkvWp_M9K60rBffwNaLC7JWfnIzBbhiCa3ikoLjMLgV7mbts/s400/IMG_2632.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Worst superhero outfit ever.</td></tr>
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9. <b>Ice Packs</b> - These next couple items I use after almost every climb session. Not essential for training, but critical for recover and injury prevention. Ice packs are a must.<br />
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10. <b>Finger Massagers</b> - They're cheap and it feels great on the fingers. Keep one in your skin kit, one in your car for the approach, or wherever else. Really nice to have around.<br />
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11. <b>Theracane</b> - Dirtbag massage therapy at its finest. I prefer investing in quarterly massage work but between sessions or on a road trip this thing is great for working knots and sore muscles.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsiHRLlcNhOburnThAbFmWJCM6rRQLCqyyR7GXitB7H7wnUgQ4KG38Y58_DzwgU2T8d2q2h6p0IW3n6BN8vhjlV-JRsPvfSh3aO7DFFMN_s18Gp6iM2Xs5rTKMnvcCGBBfyNITcgzWfC2n/s400/IMG_2636.JPG" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plus when you type finger massagers into google you're in for a certified awkward moment.</td></tr>
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I hope this helps with your training!<br />
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-BLOCHEAD<br />
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<br />BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-17577770365454279522013-05-23T11:51:00.005-07:002013-05-23T11:51:55.917-07:00BLOCHEAD TURNS 3!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1UVqwz3__7f0mI1YwduZYG6kNcVA1F0irrI0L1kf0-8uQSfx1Jx-e5w0DdvWSgSkm51iO5g2ryDpKZ7P4YGv76flur09aGv9mb2O1lBZ4FaOSDeC32XaHosV5MuFJM_1RCOnuAbTXr0f9/s1600/third_birthday.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1UVqwz3__7f0mI1YwduZYG6kNcVA1F0irrI0L1kf0-8uQSfx1Jx-e5w0DdvWSgSkm51iO5g2ryDpKZ7P4YGv76flur09aGv9mb2O1lBZ4FaOSDeC32XaHosV5MuFJM_1RCOnuAbTXr0f9/s400/third_birthday.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">CUTE THING!</td></tr>
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I can't believe it's been 3 years since I started this blog. Thanks for reading everyone, it means a lot! I'll have some more training stuff up soon.<br />
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-BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-62027927446370550552013-05-09T09:44:00.002-07:002013-05-09T09:48:00.860-07:00A Month of TrainingIn my experience the two most important elements to successful gym training are 1) having something to look forward to and 2) setting goals. Since my last workout/training post I set a goal for myself of climbing every boulder problem in the gym. This is a tough goal that satisfies both criteria. Every time I went to the gym I would look forward to trying a new problem, and with every send I came closer to my overall goal.<br />
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It has been exactly one month since my last workout post and yesterday I finished my goal of climbing every problem in the gym. I don't know exactly how many problems there are but it was around 130 ranging from V0-V12. Achieving this goal is both motivating and distressing. I am now in territory where I will be making up all of my projects using existing holds<br />
which can be a double edged sword.<br />
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I'll have new
workouts and goals in the month to come, but for now here are a few
photos of what I've been up to lately. As usual if you have any
questions, comments, or ideas please comment below.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHXWvZcDKGcmTKVuOEkV0dERjahkwlZ5P5O0KpYtm46KBRsX_JU2elJ45oqxugriy-uP-lESDJDctZ69m0S5gEt7FTJ-3b-Sa1R-KuswFfN0ZT61ge876Y9K08eMUHBdDrwIwzfx6amqj/s1600/IMG_2581.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHXWvZcDKGcmTKVuOEkV0dERjahkwlZ5P5O0KpYtm46KBRsX_JU2elJ45oqxugriy-uP-lESDJDctZ69m0S5gEt7FTJ-3b-Sa1R-KuswFfN0ZT61ge876Y9K08eMUHBdDrwIwzfx6amqj/s400/IMG_2581.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last Month in Workouts.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSaoKJpXaRHDpflxj8tLWBndLeHNhCFjyO8IlYCwlsGVK2EiyMLcQrTrlwpX6VFkmjEPAPO4AULc9IrM0YEJOof6LFjKa_ssoiGIvoG3pyr-JAHFWttVsHupFWHWwe_2r40i9BBaxLYUE3/s1600/IMG_2582.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSaoKJpXaRHDpflxj8tLWBndLeHNhCFjyO8IlYCwlsGVK2EiyMLcQrTrlwpX6VFkmjEPAPO4AULc9IrM0YEJOof6LFjKa_ssoiGIvoG3pyr-JAHFWttVsHupFWHWwe_2r40i9BBaxLYUE3/s400/IMG_2582.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbC7qJUd0eyffQrM6cVHmFu7rs61N4blGrKVxylM1xX7RioSi1BFXeMp4iAuW3Dwbtt1qAOndQTRlWaqnNG-rY6QSDqdB4Owyvv1DTkQ5yJ2gvBa4ki-KAk_uCacBtzapFltcId4VCRYXM/s1600/IMG_2583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbC7qJUd0eyffQrM6cVHmFu7rs61N4blGrKVxylM1xX7RioSi1BFXeMp4iAuW3Dwbtt1qAOndQTRlWaqnNG-rY6QSDqdB4Owyvv1DTkQ5yJ2gvBa4ki-KAk_uCacBtzapFltcId4VCRYXM/s400/IMG_2583.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the top right: A workout centered entirely around moves that I cannot do, or barely do.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS53BOiZY5KerA1qLz7RjNKmtn4VXjIZpEM3oQK0rl7agKHJ-XMVOWhPi3eAAngKCaJsCj_VgSpN0T3us9RL2VcUcR_JqnkMETAH28aY-pmk_2KqsJvBdF82qdLFwFk7iSS3euGEZIqV9o/s1600/IMG_2584.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS53BOiZY5KerA1qLz7RjNKmtn4VXjIZpEM3oQK0rl7agKHJ-XMVOWhPi3eAAngKCaJsCj_VgSpN0T3us9RL2VcUcR_JqnkMETAH28aY-pmk_2KqsJvBdF82qdLFwFk7iSS3euGEZIqV9o/s400/IMG_2584.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My personal best points day in the top right. 175 pts. in 1 hour. V8 and above up to 100.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvw3KTxovdgkwPxwp3OreCaxz-7yvyqg9ezbiU1IAXUqBi_yjYinQzYSGTMm9nelahFJrx2AcRqX8D-UXJ9xv6MOqmiPadOx9cmfSDPgn7sOwSkAliwOGlusrtttn4Nqo2CTo6sBooW1Eq/s1600/IMG_2585.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvw3KTxovdgkwPxwp3OreCaxz-7yvyqg9ezbiU1IAXUqBi_yjYinQzYSGTMm9nelahFJrx2AcRqX8D-UXJ9xv6MOqmiPadOx9cmfSDPgn7sOwSkAliwOGlusrtttn4Nqo2CTo6sBooW1Eq/s400/IMG_2585.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU63ZjUzmEs7XSjyjRHgtJQWhFnOv7mXVsJUBI2zAMb1OiWfj4zHF4WHtWn5t1RQTJUIMYLVSgU-yVr1UEHOkKbnESnOs8GmH7WDcoRAYz8XmfcOG6LuXj1fddfUdUrNtElGP7VYyu-X_s/s1600/IMG_2587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU63ZjUzmEs7XSjyjRHgtJQWhFnOv7mXVsJUBI2zAMb1OiWfj4zHF4WHtWn5t1RQTJUIMYLVSgU-yVr1UEHOkKbnESnOs8GmH7WDcoRAYz8XmfcOG6LuXj1fddfUdUrNtElGP7VYyu-X_s/s400/IMG_2587.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Homemade campus board + fingerboard outline. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-3IdsouuT0oMj_AmFHW9xcu4mSQsSCNo2i7q3iEWrf75lzOnE_W9QnKXHLzTxZt0_n3hVMlPf-BC1V95Hhy3ksX9bNULVbKMzZYyForMLIl2VGlE01dBPoCezmXqk6-lMDd8gy109ZWw-/s1600/IMG_2588.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-3IdsouuT0oMj_AmFHW9xcu4mSQsSCNo2i7q3iEWrf75lzOnE_W9QnKXHLzTxZt0_n3hVMlPf-BC1V95Hhy3ksX9bNULVbKMzZYyForMLIl2VGlE01dBPoCezmXqk6-lMDd8gy109ZWw-/s400/IMG_2588.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-TDIjRmNXOMSRHdYFTJCeVhrnDNwrNuecIE1oFlGziWslz_6jl5dP7UsJLvag4TWMj5eRxVO-Hzy2w8_nzdg7VodKVsCPBj0krR2Goo0KpIvPLyRCgpE_tWSddIzUAguYbAR-BXoFrIsK/s1600/IMG_2586.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-TDIjRmNXOMSRHdYFTJCeVhrnDNwrNuecIE1oFlGziWslz_6jl5dP7UsJLvag4TWMj5eRxVO-Hzy2w8_nzdg7VodKVsCPBj0krR2Goo0KpIvPLyRCgpE_tWSddIzUAguYbAR-BXoFrIsK/s400/IMG_2586.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sent the V12 on the ramp! Finished the session by climbing every other boulder on the ramp V10-V1 = 98 points.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Finally here is a variation to my previously posted workout submitted by BLOCHEAD reader and Vegas local Mike Kirschbaum. Mike has been climbing for just under a year now and came up with a routine that was doable, but challenging for him. Thanks for the submission Mike! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTh0ILBBKTGXNLNg8E8IU2r_FaSXKE26OSI9QS7IlvsZ-bzpRxtmiIxed43sHMJlbr-O8X9lOPfnD0dIBCk25jpa5-05XXr8eASlkac4O-WgBLdgietjKvzN8pnmHBVPa1C3T8T1wSbn0J/s1600/IMG_2575.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTh0ILBBKTGXNLNg8E8IU2r_FaSXKE26OSI9QS7IlvsZ-bzpRxtmiIxed43sHMJlbr-O8X9lOPfnD0dIBCk25jpa5-05XXr8eASlkac4O-WgBLdgietjKvzN8pnmHBVPa1C3T8T1wSbn0J/s400/IMG_2575.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Power Endurance variation workout submitted by Mike Kirschbaum.</td></tr>
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If you have a workout that you would like to submit leave a comment
below and I will get in touch with you for a chance to be featured on
the blog! <br />
<br />
-BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-27840735519816908642013-04-17T12:36:00.004-07:002013-04-17T12:38:05.977-07:00Thanks Asana!Staying fully protected in Africa thanks to Asana! 76 days until the trip of a lifetime!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYNagsZQNxgs2NrzDqTpNJIHyViRezJ5-9GWUWZvT0ZI-IjliYzCL5NHDzOrdvyLr522R8NgQrOpL6KHEhn528eORuN-LUa90s54Lh_LuShlThLZATetjKcbxVmLwtwy4yrdSZDvEq971t/s1600/483491_10151398020498616_1402889434_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYNagsZQNxgs2NrzDqTpNJIHyViRezJ5-9GWUWZvT0ZI-IjliYzCL5NHDzOrdvyLr522R8NgQrOpL6KHEhn528eORuN-LUa90s54Lh_LuShlThLZATetjKcbxVmLwtwy4yrdSZDvEq971t/s400/483491_10151398020498616_1402889434_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><h5 class="uiStreamMessage userContentWrapper" data-ft="{"type":1,"tn":"K"}">
<span class="messageBody"><span class="userContent">Thanks Asana!<br /> #asana #bouldering #bestpadsontheplanet #foamfordays #southafrica #psyched</span></span></h5>
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-BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-36575030243456377352013-04-09T13:13:00.002-07:002013-05-09T09:45:20.643-07:00Power + Power Endurance WorkoutIt's not getting any colder here in Vegas. With less than 90 days to go before leaving for South Africa you will most likely find me in the gym doing crazy shit like this:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRPUtWK9bLBtnA-vIbKBUcCKhFu9LU-3sdZ65cwBWap9aGQREbFoOkBsIPgD2Hwvn4xe7cYolQKLaU7Wf2ee8_sumZPY0Zm9oWPtllRjUr3GTvhiAECJk9Cf2OpuFPlxlcnSshf-3KFmui/s1600/workout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRPUtWK9bLBtnA-vIbKBUcCKhFu9LU-3sdZ65cwBWap9aGQREbFoOkBsIPgD2Hwvn4xe7cYolQKLaU7Wf2ee8_sumZPY0Zm9oWPtllRjUr3GTvhiAECJk9Cf2OpuFPlxlcnSshf-3KFmui/s320/workout.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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This workout took 4 1/2 hours so make sure you have some time if you want to give it a try. Everything on the paper is pretty self explanatory, just make sure not to rest during the workout periods. The rest should be chalking up in most cases. Some notes:<br />
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2 mins rest between 4x4 sets seemed fine. Less rest for 3x3 and 2x2 etc.<br />
5 mins rest between each cycle of Campus/Push/Core is enough as well.<br />
Keep track of your hourly point total so you can beat it next time.<br />
At MOST rest up to 2 mins between problems during the "power hour" avoid long water breaks or talking with people. Bouldering isn't supposed to be fun and you know that! :)<br />
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Leave any other question or effective workouts you like to do in the comments below.<br />
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Stay motivated and hold on for one more move,<br />
<br />
-BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-41318325141896393282013-03-29T12:12:00.001-07:002013-03-29T12:13:03.966-07:00Joe's Valley: Chasing an Arbitrary GoalI don't need to explain arbitrary climbing goals to those of you reading. They are inherent for anyone drawn (addicted) to climbing boulders. Recently I realized that I was very close to a personal goal of climbing 100 double digit problems (V10 or harder). In fact, I was 4 problems away.<br />
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Sure, I could have tried to stay in Vegas and knock them out but two issues loomed in my mind. First, the heat creeping in and one by one rendering my potential projects out of season, and second I have been unable to find a regular bouldering partner. This lack of friends is more frustrating than the heat when every single project I have a chance of sending needs a spotter and hauling 4 pads out into the desert alone gets old fast.<br />
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Hoping to complete this goal before this summer I looked at heading to Joe's Valley for a last ditch effort to finish some boulders. After a crazy wedding weekend left me feeling ragged I wasn't so sure that I would even make the trip, let alone send anything. However, without another opportunity on the horizon I obediently woke up to my 6:45am alarm and hit the road to Joe's Valley for a three day on shot at reaching a completely arbitrary goal.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI0CzJk4LoljwmWXjQFXdFaExuDxd-MQPWyp7UDVFbFuk-wK7TInrOkt9Le3ADvGJVwGQaMZq6SupfLyBYhi-rIk1RVr5yKaU_WEsOvocCduCpfSetvTTIBf8HuyqqiRNtvXOSlu5OLawl/s1600/v+(1+of+1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI0CzJk4LoljwmWXjQFXdFaExuDxd-MQPWyp7UDVFbFuk-wK7TInrOkt9Le3ADvGJVwGQaMZq6SupfLyBYhi-rIk1RVr5yKaU_WEsOvocCduCpfSetvTTIBf8HuyqqiRNtvXOSlu5OLawl/s400/v+(1+of+1).jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hey snow, it's been a while.</td></tr>
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<b>Day 1</b><br />
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Halfway there I realized that my media kit was sitting in my living room along with my crag bag, tape, clippers, and other little items that drove me nuts the rest of the drive. Hence the lack of a video, sorry.<br />
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I arrived shortly after 3pm with the time change, feeling stiff and uncertain. All the boulders I chose to try revolved around safe padding for a solo session. As much as I wanted to climb <i>Beyond Life</i> and <i>Trent's Mom</i> I couldn't guarantee that there would be enough pads at the exact time I wanted to attempt them. Tactics!</div>
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To begin I warmed up at the Big Joe cave with hopes of sending the extension. It took me a while to warm up from the drive and remember my beta for the beginning but after a few attempts I managed to stick the final big move for a send of <i>Nerve Extension, </i>but not before taking a couple wild falls. Happy to have some Asana foam underneath me!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRSxaQkusYvWoghTAmQwwd03xj37kmgudBRgZwvZI62sXYupeEh9Yiuj0w7mz00LJQTF8IBZgrH282lL0qOLS5w-suyHIdnzLR5QoTM7AQJMQgyjWawDEuQ0kJAv_8oXUqpw6x-7yYZcjZ/s1600/2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRSxaQkusYvWoghTAmQwwd03xj37kmgudBRgZwvZI62sXYupeEh9Yiuj0w7mz00LJQTF8IBZgrH282lL0qOLS5w-suyHIdnzLR5QoTM7AQJMQgyjWawDEuQ0kJAv_8oXUqpw6x-7yYZcjZ/s400/2.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I gotchu brah!</td></tr>
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From the cave I walked over to <i>The Worm Turns. </i>It took me a few minutes to figure out some alternative beta involving a tough foot rip into a left heel hook, and once I was ready for redpoint burns I dabbed twice trying to keep my core tight on this unorthodox foot cut method. Finally I put a very thin Evolv slider in place and sent. I began right hand on the undercling and left on the bottom of the tufa as the guide instructs, however afterward I climbed it again just starting matched on the bottom of the tufa. Felt the same to me but what do I know?</div>
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Two down, two to go!</div>
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<b>Day 2</b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaftz9kIvTyZFJHOn_aCXUnPaS9F5xkxIiGc8uvv97VLJLRA00FfLJwY-HmjThfq677uN8LmGfyXk5mx_Cf3EaY-BGmaF8EGIsB-Hegvxz-2u4qnNSoRsFQKJMbKo4oTzyYzblbT11EmrW/s1600/4.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaftz9kIvTyZFJHOn_aCXUnPaS9F5xkxIiGc8uvv97VLJLRA00FfLJwY-HmjThfq677uN8LmGfyXk5mx_Cf3EaY-BGmaF8EGIsB-Hegvxz-2u4qnNSoRsFQKJMbKo4oTzyYzblbT11EmrW/s400/4.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you like cows Joe's is the place for you.</td></tr>
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<div>
I began the day confident that I was going to just sew up a couple 10 bangers and leave Day 3 for bonus climbing. As it happened I got royally shut down on everything I tried. <i>Fingerhut</i> was in the mood to slice fat guys, <i>Skull</i> was ready to flare up some lingering bicep tendonitis, and <i>Skeleton Key</i> (after a grueling 20 minute snowshoe uphill) was soaking wet up top! It was nearly dark and I hadn't completed a single boulder, yet I had tried all of them leaving me tired and doubtful about the next day. </div>
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In a desperate attempt to salvage the day I shot over to New Joe's, where I ran into a great group of friends from Hueco on their way to the <i>Ghost King</i> boulder. I decided to call it a day and join their session to hangout and forget about my goal for an hour or two. </div>
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Once I was under the boulder I realized that there were two problems on the boulder I had not already finished (<i>Ghost of War</i> and <i>Porn King</i>). With a good group and a lot of pads I felt energized to try <i>Porn King. </i>I felt very tired at first, but after some help figuring out the beta and watching my buddy Andrew Rothner send I was inspired. Within the next couple attempts,<i> </i>and to my complete surprise, I managed to stick the crux move off a tweaky two finger pocket, hold the swing and send the boulder!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivlFYP9tFChDyYweZjLW0XjmWrY701DPMIFjT6bLzT52USsU17z7d-JzHKO937zcOAdwRKvylWGjX8roBcuEbQaUU3kM7lfZLfaH672wSy-lXSJW0Tl1Y7Vq73vp2WvDfdmY45E8AlhZBl/s1600/7.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivlFYP9tFChDyYweZjLW0XjmWrY701DPMIFjT6bLzT52USsU17z7d-JzHKO937zcOAdwRKvylWGjX8roBcuEbQaUU3kM7lfZLfaH672wSy-lXSJW0Tl1Y7Vq73vp2WvDfdmY45E8AlhZBl/s400/7.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Easy Money huckin' meat on <i>Ghost King</i>.</td></tr>
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One more to go, what a relief!</div>
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<b>Day 3</b></div>
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So sore. Not good. I slept in until around 10 and didn't leave for the boulders until 2pm with one goal: <i>Resident Evil. </i>I had this feeling that the 100th boulder had to be a classic<i>. </i>I welcomed the sheet of clouds in the sky and found the boulder feeling cool and shaded. Perfect. I tried once from the beginning, fell, climbed the stand start, rested and sent. It was so satisfying to stick the final throw for the starfish feature and roll over the boulder. Though sore and tired it was quite a feeling to reach this goal. I thought about my first V10 along with a few others as I watched the smoke trickle out from the three iconic pillars across the way. </div>
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And by the time my feet were back on the ground I was already drafting up something new to chase.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkQ0HSpB12oDT9tpEj9U-ylRYCOFL4M0lsKGn9_RHjS9v1u00ELpsD1tW8KtTqPbWgvlKM6Z5cywGYV0lrhI6qKZPXb01IPvJ6YMBhjkPSkhMgy2MhSDU9Q17z4OonIZFnjQjYlGUxE9L6/s1600/5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkQ0HSpB12oDT9tpEj9U-ylRYCOFL4M0lsKGn9_RHjS9v1u00ELpsD1tW8KtTqPbWgvlKM6Z5cywGYV0lrhI6qKZPXb01IPvJ6YMBhjkPSkhMgy2MhSDU9Q17z4OonIZFnjQjYlGUxE9L6/s400/5.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view from New Joe's.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJtLWoQ2jlFEbC9r87sHZw4eEEsdLcjusifHkeqTB86uGAeKxfz9KRwupPsrKqJwO4KL7iD5HDQXZOHdJqVOrWOhwTAUIUlDVNZ_0yuxxNf0VEzzz-Nd-Lnll7fMkOnL_kxAGvpTqrWNJT/s1600/1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJtLWoQ2jlFEbC9r87sHZw4eEEsdLcjusifHkeqTB86uGAeKxfz9KRwupPsrKqJwO4KL7iD5HDQXZOHdJqVOrWOhwTAUIUlDVNZ_0yuxxNf0VEzzz-Nd-Lnll7fMkOnL_kxAGvpTqrWNJT/s400/1.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So long Joe's. Until next time.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
-BLOCHEAD</div>
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BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-53234966417208214312013-03-22T09:36:00.001-07:002013-05-09T09:45:36.360-07:00TEAM ASANA!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwuCz0mCfL7lqNa48O796t3mSRZ09jeU1pZT8-DfGSgHkNSo2ex-KvWxX2ZU_rZd0A-6j0BmxgjO8fULT4q3xvYx0u4-lGwrgOf2LU0gmvhqDOFVlEGV_Rf-ZHRIPbz2loVLK5eQJHuAj-/s1600/asana-logo.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwuCz0mCfL7lqNa48O796t3mSRZ09jeU1pZT8-DfGSgHkNSo2ex-KvWxX2ZU_rZd0A-6j0BmxgjO8fULT4q3xvYx0u4-lGwrgOf2LU0gmvhqDOFVlEGV_Rf-ZHRIPbz2loVLK5eQJHuAj-/s320/asana-logo.png" width="320" /></a></div>
As the title suggests I am very excited to share this with you. From here on out I have the privilege to represent the best bouldering gear on the market! I have been thoroughly impressed with their focus and innovation in the world of bouldering in the past years and it's a great feeling to be part of the team.<br />
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For someone who exclusively wrestles pebbles this is a perfect fit. Whether it be crag bags, holds, gym flooring, highball pads or sliders Asana is killing it on every level. In a sport where failure reigns supreme I am always happy to have one of their pads beneath me.<br />
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I can say without a doubt that this is the best crash pad made here in the US, which of course makes it the best in the world :). The biggest reason for this success is in their innovation. This renders companies that haven't changed their design, buckles, or carrying system obsolete in a young, fast growing sport.<br />
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Asana has been taking direct feedback, ideas and design from the people that are out there putting pads to the test such as Kevin Jorgeson and more recently Paul Robinson. This collaborative process that has resulted in a more comfortable hip strap, wider shoulder straps, and even small triangles of carpet on the landing surface for brushing your shoes off before a redpoint attempt. Seemingly small conveniences, but for boulderers makes a world of difference.<br />
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In short, if you are looking to replace your haggard foam look no further. You won't be disappointed.<br />
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More videos to come, have a good weekend everyone!<br />
<br />
-BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-41773974736938555142013-03-11T08:57:00.002-07:002013-03-17T08:39:09.756-07:00Anthem - VideoLib getting it done on her adventure project. A fun boulder if you have the time to hike out there! More from her on the experience <a href="http://www.tentsarehard.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="211" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/61446449" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="375"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/61446449">Liberty Herring - Anthem V9</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/blochead">BLOCHEAD</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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-BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-57219342503688932962013-03-07T10:37:00.000-08:002013-05-09T09:45:36.362-07:00Limited Edition - VideoNew boulders are going up like crazy down here in the desert. The legendary Craig Berman cleaned this impossible looking series of sloping red rails and it turns out instead of being a mutant level campus proj there are some (bad and slowly eroding) footholds and it goes! 2nd ascent footage below.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="211" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/61284334" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="375"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/61284334">Limited Edition V10</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/blochead">BLOCHEAD</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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-BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-72368982535811763862013-03-02T20:12:00.000-08:002013-04-17T16:01:25.467-07:00IS THAT ON NORTH? A HUECO TANKS BOULDERING VIDHere it is! 19 Problems from V2-V13. I hope you enjoy the video. I had a lot of fun making it and capturing the good times with friends. It's a pretty goofy video so like the last one, please don't take it too seriously. We sure didn't.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="211" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/60902658" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="375"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/60902658">IS THAT ON NORTH?</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/blochead">BLOCHEAD</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
If you click the vimeo link all the climbs are annotated so you can find them easily for beta or whatever. Otherwise here is the full list.<br />
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Problems in order of appearance:<br />
Short Order Cook V6 (<a class="video_time" data-time="12" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">0:12</a>)<br />
Wonderhole Dyno V10 (<a class="video_time" data-time="30" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">0:30</a>)<br />
Theater of the Absurd V10 (<a class="video_time" data-time="52" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">0:52</a>)<br />
McBain V8 (<a class="video_time" data-time="108" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">1:48</a>)<br />
Smooth Move V8 (<a class="video_time" data-time="150" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">2:30</a>)<br />
Free Willy V10 Flash! (<a class="video_time" data-time="188" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">3:08</a>)<br />
Alma Blanca V13 (<a class="video_time" data-time="235" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">3:55</a>)<br />
Paleozoic V9 (<a class="video_time" data-time="279" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">4:39</a>)<br />
Pumped Full of Semen V9 (<a class="video_time" data-time="339" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">5:39</a>)<br />
Dark Age V11 (<a class="video_time" data-time="425" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">7:05</a>)<br />
Fern Roof V8 (<a class="video_time" data-time="518" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">8:38</a>)<br />
Nobody Here Gets Out Alive V2 (<a class="video_time" data-time="630" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">10:30</a>)<br />
Daily Dick Dose V7 (<a class="video_time" data-time="737" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">12:17</a>)<br />
Loaded With Power V10 (<a class="video_time" data-time="788" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">13:08</a>)<br />
Sign of the Cross V3 (<a class="video_time" data-time="840" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">14:00</a>)<br />
Choir Boys Light V7 (<a class="video_time" data-time="898" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">14:58</a>)<br />
Melon Patch (<a class="video_time" data-time="993" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">16:33</a>)<br />
Barefoot on Sacred Ground V12 (<a class="video_time" data-time="1062" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">17:42</a>) (<a class="video_time" data-time="1094" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">18:14</a>) Send<br />
Loaded Direct V12 (<a class="video_time" data-time="1137" href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4178850548497494205">18:57</a>) <br />
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More vids to come!<br />
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-BLOCHEADBLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-73718961428898548722013-02-19T13:00:00.001-08:002013-02-19T13:00:50.169-08:00The Monkey Bar Circuit - VideoStill working on the Hueco video. In the meantime I got out to the Monkey Bar boulder with the hope to doing Mark Heal's tough eliminate <i>The Redirect</i> V12. After sticking this TOUGH move and finishing the problem I decided to go ham and climb every hard line on the boulder including a couple of my own trainer eliminates. I only had a short amount if time before work, but I had a blast! Maybe I'll try again sometime and add a few more.<br />
<br />
I made a little video of that day. Please don't take it seriously.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="211" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/60024144" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="375"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/60024144">The Monkey Bar Circuit</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/blochead">BLOCHEAD</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
-BLOCHEAD <br />
<br />BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-42560485107770311172013-02-12T10:56:00.000-08:002013-02-12T13:28:59.311-08:00Alma Blanca - VideoDon't you hate it when someone does a boulder problem and just posts video of the send go? Well, maybe you don't care at all. I started recording my attempts of Alma Blanca in hopes of finding out what I was doing wrong and how I could adjust my body position to correct it.<br />
<br />
Before long I had over 50 recorded attempts. I decided to leave most of them in the video to show a very real process of repeated failure. In total I estimate that I tried the move to the lip 100 times. I only stuck the move three times. Once in isolation, and twice on redpoint.<br />
<br />
Some climbers claim that this boulder is "easy" or "soft" and it could be for their body types but it didn't feel that way to me. I was fully spanned between the two holds and by the end I was stretching so far to keep the toe hook that I was nearly limping away from an overextended right hip flexor.<br />
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I learned a lot from this boulder and I look forward to taking the experience and applying it to hard projects in the future.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="211" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/59506113" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="375"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/59506113">Under Pressure - Alma Blanca - Hueco Tanks</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/blochead">BLOCHEAD</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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-BLOCHEAD BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4178850548497494205.post-57012521188602527042013-02-11T17:49:00.000-08:002013-02-12T13:29:09.336-08:00Hueco Tanks - A Quick RecapI have a LOT of footage to scrub through here in the next few days but I couldn't wait to share a quick update about the trip. I've been back in Vegas for about an hour now and I already miss Hueco. The past three weeks in the promised land added up to be my most memorable and productive trip to date. I should have a video ready for tomorrow or the next day, but in the meantime here is a list of the new problems I finished if you're interested.<br />
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Alma Blanca<br />
Barefoot on Sacred Ground<br />
Loaded Direct<br />
Rogered in the Shower<br />
Dark Age<br />
Free Willy (FLASH! What?!) <br />
Theater of the Absurd<br />
The Governator<br />
Loaded With Power<br />
Paleozoic<br />
<br />
Looking back I only did 10 new problems and I never left North Mountain, but the motivation was high and you have to follow the psych. I am already looking forward to next year when I'll meet back up with the same old friends, laugh, eat burritos and forget about the rest of the world for a few weeks.<br />
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-BLOCHEAD BLOCHEADhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02670829113234237505noreply@blogger.com2