Thursday, June 13, 2013

Getting Wrecked

This workout really did it. Usually when I go to the gym I try pretty hard, but not hard enough to fail at my entire workout. Like all climbers I like to feel successful and send things. That is the natural urge that I have been fighting to suppress in the gym. In general I do a decent job of this, but I wanted to take my training to the next level for these last couple weeks. In a recent conversation with my buddy Dave he reminded me of this aspect, something he had read in a book by Dave MacLeod. I'll have to read that one sometime.
Failure never felt so good. I mean painful and monotonous. But worth it. Or something.

This is just a basic workout with 3 sections: warm up, climbing portion, training portion. For my climbing portion I wanted to do a set of 4x4's that was at/above my limit. I chose problems that I could confidently reach the 3/4 mark but would be very difficult to send 4 times in a row. My results were an awesome amount of failure. I fell a lot at the 1/2 way or 3/4 mark on the harder problems and fell last move on the two easier ones a couple times. I ended up sending 25% of my efforts with one send consisting of a variation I improvised on the V12 at the top just to keep going (read: I cheated and made it V10/11).

Following the 4x4s I did an hour of hang boarding using the CWP plan followed by campusing and some core. It felt great to be pushing myself that hard and trying things out of my league. 3 weeks until I leave for Africa!

-BLOCHEAD

Friday, May 31, 2013

Alternate Wet Dream Footage

My good buddy PLT just sent me some footage from this past season he had of me sending the iconic Wet Dream V12. I thought this angle was great for beta since this problem can be tricky. Enjoy!

Max Moore climbs Wet Dream V12 from BLOCHEAD on Vimeo.

-BLOCHEAD

Monday, May 27, 2013

Training Tools

The following is a list of the tools I use most frequently when training for bouldering. I have refined this collection over a couple years and they all have proven useful and effective. In other words they are all worth buying and having if you are a gym rat like me.

I won't be going into too much detail about how to use most these things because they all seem pretty self explanatory, but if you have questions as always feel free to ask in the comment section. I'll be focusing more on why they work for me and help me become stronger.

1. Wristwatch with stopwatch/interval feature - I've had the same one for years and haven't even changed the battery on it yet. This is probably my #1 suggestion for people who want to take their training to another level. Timing rests and activity gives me a bearing on progression from week to week.

2. Notebook - Even if you are not on a regiment, buy one of these and start writing down your entire workout. This serves two invaluable functions for your climbing. First it provides a tangible reference for your progression over time. This takes out the anecdotal "I'm having a bad day/week/whatever" and replaces it with something you can check. You may feel like crap but looking back on a month ago you may actually be crushing your previous time/rep/etc. Second, a notebook keeps you on track. If you are writing down everything in your session or goals you have during your time at the gym the notebook will help you make better use of that time.

And you can put stickers of your favorite stuff on it!

3. Weights - Pretty standard. If you have a decent climbing facility they might have weights available for you. I'm not as lucky here so I bought my own. At the most I recommend the following plated weights: 2 10lb and 1 25lb. This gives you a good amount of options between 10-45lbs and they should be enough.

Great all around tool. Hypergravity hangs, sit ups, general badassery.

4. Harness and Sling w/ Biner - I only use my harness for weighted hangs (AND SPORT CLIMBING JK LOL) and the sling I use for a one handed hang assist while hangboard training and also for fastening the plates to my harness.
Seriously guys, what's a "one-hang"?
5. The Ivanko Super Gripper - Yes, this spring-loaded torture device is absolutely Russian. And yes, you will love it. Primarily used by a niche sect of bodybuilders obsessed with grip strength, this thing has adjustable tension springs ranging from "not so bad" to "are you f*cking kidding me?!"

6. The Ab Wheel - If you decided to buy one thing off this list it should be this. It's like $10 and you will not regret it.
These were actually cut from scenes in Zero Dark Thirty for being too cruel and unusual.

7. Ankle Weights - I use these all the time. At least twice a week for various things. Front levers, leg lifts, even practicing holding swings on steep terrain. Great for a little resistance.

8. 10lb Weight Vest -The only reason I specified 10lbs is because I used to have a 20lb and I did not find that it helped much. I use this sparingly, but it is great for a 4x4 once in a while when you want to feel like a superhero.

Worst superhero outfit ever.

 9. Ice Packs - These next couple items I use after almost every climb session. Not essential for training, but critical for recover and injury prevention. Ice packs are a must.

10. Finger Massagers - They're cheap and it feels great on the fingers. Keep one in your skin kit, one in your car for the approach, or wherever else. Really nice to have around.

11. Theracane - Dirtbag massage therapy at its finest. I prefer investing in quarterly massage work but between sessions or on a road trip this thing is great for working knots and sore muscles.

Plus when you type finger massagers into google you're in for a certified awkward moment.

I hope this helps with your training!

-BLOCHEAD



Thursday, May 23, 2013

BLOCHEAD TURNS 3!



CUTE THING!

I can't believe it's been 3 years since I started this blog. Thanks for reading everyone, it means a lot! I'll have some more training stuff up soon.

-BLOCHEAD

Thursday, May 9, 2013

A Month of Training

In my experience the two most important elements to successful gym training are 1) having something to look forward to and 2) setting goals. Since my last workout/training post I set a goal for myself of climbing every boulder problem in the gym. This is a tough goal that satisfies both criteria. Every time I went to the gym I would look forward to trying a new problem, and with every send I came closer to my overall goal.

It has been exactly one month since my last workout post and yesterday I finished my goal of climbing every problem in the gym. I don't know exactly how many problems there are but it was around 130 ranging from V0-V12. Achieving this goal is both motivating and distressing. I am now in territory where I will be making up all of my projects using existing holds
which can be a double edged sword.

I'll have new workouts and goals in the month to come, but for now here are a few photos of what I've been up to lately. As usual if you have any questions, comments, or ideas please comment below.


Last Month in Workouts.


In the top right: A workout centered entirely around moves that I cannot do, or barely do.

My personal best points day in the top right. 175 pts. in 1 hour. V8 and above up to 100.


Homemade campus board + fingerboard outline.

Sent the V12 on the ramp! Finished the session by climbing every other boulder on the ramp V10-V1 = 98 points.


Finally here is a variation to my previously posted workout submitted by BLOCHEAD reader and Vegas local Mike Kirschbaum. Mike has been climbing for just under a year now and came up with a routine that was doable, but challenging for him. Thanks for the submission Mike!

Power Endurance variation workout submitted by Mike Kirschbaum.

If you have a workout that you would like to submit leave a comment below and I will get in touch with you for a chance to be featured on the blog!

-BLOCHEAD

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Thanks Asana!

Staying fully protected in Africa thanks to Asana! 76 days until the trip of a lifetime!

Thanks Asana!
#asana #bouldering #bestpadsontheplanet #foamfordays #southafrica #psyched
-BLOCHEAD

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Power + Power Endurance Workout

It's not getting any colder here in Vegas. With less than 90 days to go before leaving for South Africa you will most likely find me in the gym doing crazy shit like this:





This workout took 4 1/2 hours so make sure you have some time if you want to give it a try. Everything on the paper is pretty self explanatory, just make sure not to rest during the workout periods. The rest should be chalking up in most cases. Some notes:

2 mins rest between 4x4 sets seemed fine. Less rest for 3x3 and 2x2 etc.
5 mins rest between each cycle of Campus/Push/Core is enough as well.
Keep track of your hourly point total so you can beat it next time.
At MOST rest up to 2 mins between problems during the "power hour" avoid long water breaks or talking with people. Bouldering isn't supposed to be fun and you know that! :)

Leave any other question or effective workouts you like to do in the comments below.

Stay motivated and hold on for one more move,

-BLOCHEAD