Tufas and Roof Cracks

This morning I woke up feeling like I had been hit by a train. Three days climbing as hard as you can in Hueco will tear you up. Lib prevailed as climber of the week by crushing a number of moderates as well as the North Mountain neoclassic Bloodline. Yes, there is a vertical tufa in Hueco. As if any further proof was needed that Hueco has it all.

Nate pondering the life decisions that led him to try...

The Morgue V5, a 25 foot roof crack.

Lib pulling the final crux of Bloodline.

"I know I just sent, but I'm really freaked out about the downclimb!" Don't worry, she's fine and thoroughly psyched.

-BLOCHEAD

Two On the Spur

After my last rest day I realized that there is only so much time left this season. After being here for over a month I am thoroughly happy with what I've managed to finish off and the awesome people I've met, but with a month and a half left it is time to focus in on a few select classics.

Luckily, the list finally shrank a bit after finishing off Rumble in the Jungle yesterday after a few days refining beta and dialing in the tricky V4/5 slab exit.

Lib also put down one of her East Spur projects with an impressive send of That Hi-Pro Glow. Anyone that has climbed or attempted this classic knows that it does not favor the short, making her full span foot cut pretty bad ass.

Here are a few of here photos from the past couple days out in the backcountry:

Dustin killing Wheaties second try!

A productive high point link the day before sending on Rumble.

Setting up to walk the feet over.

Psyched to send a hard rock climb!

-BLOCHEAD

Back to North

The crowds have thinned and everyone here for the season has been psyched to get back on their North Mountain projects. I managed to send a mini project with a classic Hueco name: Anal Intruder #10 V11 while Lib made quick work of Stegasaur V7.

The following day brought a wave of heat, though we tried to climb anyway. After a long lazy warm up I figured out the majority of the movement on Barefoot on Sacred Ground V12 before heading over to the front side for entirely too long of a lunch break.

I never quite got back up to steam after lunch, however Nate made some progress on Diaphanous Sea V11/12 and Power of Silence V10 while I tried to make my fingers cooperate. Today is hot as well, but hopefully the weather will cool a bit or I'll just have to find some nice caves to hide out in. In other words I'll be at Rumble til further notice.

Nate on Diaphanous Sea V11/12.

Warming up on the ultra classic Hershey's Symphony V1.

Nate on Power of Silence V10.

-BLOCHEAD

Strong Winds

I love heading into the backcountry with people on their last day. They're typically super motivated and it's a good thing to be around. Yesterday I was pretty wrecked from a hard day of climbing Sunday, however I thought I could rally with the good group we put together. Things were looking alright until gale force winds began screaming through the Tanks. Despite everyone's best efforts on their projects we all came up empty handed and couldn't get indoors soon enough after a full day of being sandblasted.

Tom moments before his final rage burn of the trip on Mo Mojo V11.

Kneebarin' ain't easy but it's necessary on Sunshine V11.

Nate on Sunshine.

Tom demonstrating his expertise in toehookology.

Entering the crux of Liane V11.

-BLOCHEAD

A Productive Third Day On

The past few days have seen thinning crowds, perfect temps, and a lot of time out in the park.

Yesterday, after a fully psyched Tom burst into the barn looking for someone to take him out to Rumble in the Jungle V11/12, a group of us rallied for a surprisingly productive third day on.

Nate brushing the tricky slab on Rumble in the Jungle V11/12.

On the opening moves of Rumble.

Warming up I felt like garbage, however the motivation was contagious and I managed to make good links including a highpoint on the boulder. Congrats to Tom on the send!

Tom on the send go of Rumble.

Lib also made a highpoint on That Hi-Pro Glow V6, while Nate sent this classic Spur line second try.

We rounded out the day in the Stableboy area where Nate made progress on A Good Day For Swiss Crisp Mix and Dead Serious, both V10.

With our skin thrashed and the sun dropping we headed back to the Ranch. Luckily the crowds have been thinning out lately and hopefully we'll be able to get back to North Mountain projects sooner than later. In the meantime you'll probably be able to find us out in the Spur.

-BLOCHEAD

Natural Disaster & More Forced Rest

Our splitter weather has been interrupted with what started as a light rain, turned into a downpour, and ended up as a flurry of snow that continued throughout the night and into the early morning.

That said it looks like I'll be taking a couple rest days to let my skin heal up and the park dry out. I'll be sure to log some serious hours at Primos (now Rick's) and the $2 (or $1 Tuesdays) movies theatre.

I also did a bit of rock climbing the past couple days, however there is little photographic proof except for this shot...

Working the stunning West Mountain Neo-Classic Natural Disaster V10.

-BLOCHEAD

P.S. Dustin and Narissa if you're reading Lib and I got your box of goodies and can't thank you enough!

Serves You Right & Another West Mountain Adventure

With the New Year hangovers gone and everyone resolving to climb more boulders it looks like North Mountain projects will have to wait another week or so. Luckily the backcountry is not in need of classic lines.

Wednesday I took out another Classics of East tour, where we hit all the main zones leading to the Lower Dragons Den. Everyone on the tour got a new boulder in and I was fortunate to send the world class Full Service, Hueco's first and arguably best V10. I can't even express how amazing this line climbs, and those reading that have tried or sent it will know that an attempt to describe this V-Scale standard is futile. All I will say is that it is thoroughly worth it. Worth the skin, the time, the training, the plane ticket, the gas money, the unemployment, and will certainly stick with me for years to come.

Thursday Nate, Lib and I went out on a climbing/recon mission to a few areas we had yet to explore on West Mountain.

First stop, the Round Room. A fully enclosed circular room littered with sinker huecos.

After a few laps without ever touching the ground we headed out and onward to try a few problems near Animal Acts V5 including Honeycomb Hideout V5 and eventually Scream V10,11, or 12 depending where you start.

Nate eyeing the miserable sloper on Scream Stand V10.

I was pretty surprised to send the V10 stand start to Scream on my second try after botching the flash by missing the sloper. This line is a great power problem and it looks as if the lower starts add nothing but brick hard moves on pockets and poor feet.

On the send go of Scream Stand V10.

We rounded out the day with a hike up the hill to Bodysnatcher V4 and finally to Crash Dummy V7 before sprinting back to headquarters to turn in the end loop key. Every time I get out to West and explore more areas It makes me realize how much I have left to discover.

-BLOCHEAD

Time in the Backcountry

NYE at the HHR.

After bringing in the New Year in true Hueco style I decided to let the North Mountain lines die down and opted to spend the first two days of the year guiding in the backcountry. Its great to get out there with people that are psyched to be in Hueco and the energy has been contagious.

Everyone typically sends at least one new problem or project on tour and I have been finishing/getting closer on a few of my own as well.

Lib trusting the thin footholds on Slim Pickins V5.

On the flash go of Sex After Death V8.

At the end of a long day of climbing we were treated to a rare sighting of these Aoudad Sheep.

The next day on an East Mountain tour. Nate latches the "H" on Full Service V10 and takes it all the way to a new high point.

Tom dialing out the opening moves on Mo' Mojo V11.

Resetting the heel during an unexpected send of Mojo V10 at the very end of the day.

Nate setting up for the big move on Mojo.

-BLOCHEAD