Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Innocent Exile Video

It's always an adjustment switching rock types. After a few days of remembering how to climb on the small sandstone edges and oblique features offered here in Vegas (read: getting stomped) I have managed to enjoy some success on a new boulder that local developer Bill McLamore showed me. I was there to see Bill's first ascent of this crimpy 45 degree line he dubbed Innocent Exile and was so psyched that I threw myself at it two days in a row to no avail, completely demolishing my skin in the process.

The weekend storm proved useful by forcing a little rest and allowing my skin to grow back and I was able to nab the second ascent yesterday afternoon!



As for the grade it's always hard to say. Bill and I both though it to be in the 10 range. The crux is fairly specific and revolves around getting to, holding on, and moving off a very small crimp with a sharp tooth in it.

I know this is a lot of grade spray and it doesn't matter in the end, but since this line is so new I thought I would share. It would be great to get some more people on it and hear your opinions!

-BLOCHEAD

5 comments:

  1. Ahh yes. The one great thing about having you back in civilization is getting to see you put out new vids. Nice send duder!

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  2. Thanks man! Psyched to make more videos here before it gets too warm.

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  3. Nice work on the video Dude. It's really engaging.

    I'm gonna be stopping back in Vegas soon so you'll have to take me back there.

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  4. Awesome send! I cringed at the crimp shot, I could feel the pain!

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  5. Thanks for watching!

    Dave - I'll take you up there for sure. You'll kill that line. There's some other good stuff in the area as well.

    Jeline - Thanks! That crimper is pretty small. Definitely bites back. Next time you guys come to Vegas I'll have to take you up there.

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