Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Alma Blanca - Video

Don't you hate it when someone does a boulder problem and just posts video of the send go? Well, maybe you don't care at all. I started recording my attempts of Alma Blanca in hopes of finding out what I was doing wrong and how I could adjust my body position to correct it.

Before long I had over 50 recorded attempts. I decided to leave most of them in the video to show a very real process of repeated failure. In total I estimate that I tried the move to the lip 100 times. I only stuck the move three times. Once in isolation, and twice on redpoint.

Some climbers claim that this boulder is "easy" or "soft" and it could be for their body types but it didn't feel that way to me. I was fully spanned between the two holds and by the end I was stretching so far to keep the toe hook that I was nearly limping away from an overextended right hip flexor.

I learned a lot from this boulder and I look forward to taking the experience and applying it to hard projects in the future.

Under Pressure - Alma Blanca - Hueco Tanks from BLOCHEAD on Vimeo.



  1. Man, I love seeing the progression of you working this problem! Very cool and nice job!

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