A Best Day and A Rest Day

It's so hard to not climb in Hueco Tanks. And though I'm here for another two months and change I still find myself climbing two or three days in a row until my skin feels like a wet napkin and hiking up to climbs hurts. Luckily the first two days of my recent three on were amazing.

Wednesday we got into the park late, and I figured it would still be a good half day to try things. After warming up on the classic Orifice Affair V1 (though it seems to have broken so maybe harder?) I decided to try The Wonder Dyno V10 to get the big muscles warm. Note: As with all one movers this problem gets anywhere from V-warm up to V-impossible.

I was surprised to find that after a couple tries my fingers managed to span the distance and stick the bottom lip of the jug. What a satisfying feeling! I had tried a couple years ago and hadn't even been close.

Another project from a couple years ago that I hadn't been close at all on was El Techo De Los Tres B, a unique roof with an odd sequence that used to be V13 until a hold broke and dropped it a couple grades so mortals could enjoy it.

There was a good group working the problem and after a couple tries and a key change of shoes I sent on my fourth try of the trip!

Setting up for the crux on El Techo De Los Tres B V11.

Spanning the move to the fingerlock.

I couldn't believe that all this was actually happening, but at the same time I was aware that days like this don't come around often. With that in mind I was eager to get back on Tequila Sunrise V11/12 before it got too dark.

But as we were approaching Martini Roof I had a sudden urge to try Black Mamba V10 a fearsome two-mover that had shut me down just a few days before. I told Lib that I was only allowed three tries on it before moving on. After failing on the first two I thought my luck had run out, however by some chance I stuck the lip on my third and final attempt and took it to the top.

By the time I reached Tequila Sunrise I was psyched, but feeling worked and on my best attempt managed to link through the hard lower moves into the V9/10 finish before hitting the pad going for the big move. Though I left without a send it was hard to feel anything but joy.

One move into the stand start on Tequila Sunrise V11/12.

Throwing for the hueco, just before hitting the pads.

After such a great day I was psyched just to hang out the next day, but had some unexpected success with a quick send of the short compression roof Schwerer Gustov V10/11. I also tried Tequila Sunrise again, but to no avail.

Yesterday, after riding such a successful two days on I was foolish enough to think I could keep it up, but my skin screamed in protest and the session was short-lived.

Now, after a windy night in our tent akin to sleeping in a jet engine it's snowing in El Paso and no one showed up for my second observed tour. But that's Hueco, the land of extremes.

-BLOCHEAD