Saturday, June 18, 2011

God is in the Details - SENT!

Last night the 20 move wrestling match with my super project came to an end. After seven days of attempting the line from the beginning I finally wound up at the top of the boulder last night around 9:30. I had already tried twice that night, which was usually my cut off point per day of projecting, however the temps were perfect and we set up the headlamps in the dark cave for one more burn. Watching the dark grainy footage afterwards I was surprised at how quickly I was climbing. Time has a strange way of unfolding when you're climbing in that perfect zone. Everything feels slow and controlled. I could feel every cool granite pebble biting into my skin and taste the sharp air with every breath. And when time finally catches up it's over.

This line is by far the hardest thing I have ever climbed. From start holds to the finish it weighs in at a massive 19 hand movements. That's not counting the crux tension move to get a heel up at around move 11. I highly recommend this line not only because I love steep bouldering, but because it is the full value line in the cave, climbing out the steepest part of the roof to a very powerful, yet subtle exit sequence.

With the project done we are beginning to look toward the Tahoe area as it begins to slowly heat up here in Leavenworth. There are a few lines I would still like to do while here, notably Pretty Hate Machine, though I can't seem to find it...

Meanwhile it's time for some rest and maybe a celebratory dinner that doesn't consist of a bagel or pasta, but not before a little training on a budget!





-BLOCHEAD

8 comments:

  1. Congrats! That problem is crazy hard.

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  2. Thanks man! Are you back in Leavenworth? We should climb.

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  3. Love the training on a budget pics! Absolutely hilarious.

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  4. Congrats! Nice to see more hard Dave T lines get repeated- do you have the CWA guide? To get to PHM just park a bit past the Carnival boulders and hike up the hill, a good distance (15min or so), there is a sort of fork that you take a left at I believe and it's behind the first large boulders you come to

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  5. @Ike -Thanks! Lots of work, but it's such a good line that it was totally worth it. How's Black Mountain been?

    @Shamwow - Thanks! It was a great line to repeat. We do have a guidebook, and we tried to find the boulders, but we couldn't even find Pretty Boy to orient ourselves. Thanks for the beta though, it looks like it's a little further back than we looked. We're headed to Gold Bar for the next few days so I'll have to look once we get back.

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  7. It's been a little warm, but still good. Make your way down here eventually.

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