Sunday, July 11, 2010

Rainbow - Day 4

Here is a video of the fourth installment of the Rainbow area. Since the last video Liberty and I have been searching the area for more boulders and new projects. We were lucky enough to stumble upon this giant boulder with a steep backside that sees afternoon shade. After a day of working out the movement I came back and sent first go. It felt roughly V8, and I named it, "Pursuit of Happiness." It could be a FA, but it's hard to tell.

Rainbow Part 4, Donner Summit, CA from BLOCHEAD on Vimeo.

There are still things I want to finish before heading back to Vegas. It always seems that projects show themselves right before the end of a trip, and this trip is no exception.

The first is right next to Pursuit of Happiness, consisting of one extremely tough and accurate throw off a good left hand edge and a right sloping dish around the arete. The body position is so awkward that the crux becomes generating for the huck. I think when it goes it will be ~V9. The sit start to this, which adds a HARD slap to the sloping dish off non-existent feet, feels at least V9/10. I was able to pull my butt off the ground briefly and thrutch to the dish, but it still feels a long way off from sticking the move.

The second project required some landscaping, but will no doubt be worth it. Feeling around V6/7, it starts low on a sloping crimp and sidepull through a tough deadpoint to a sharp crimp, a drive-by move to a pinch, and then a great lurch around the lip to a sloping jug. I was truly surprised at both the difficulty and quality of this line, and hope that more people will get on it in the future.


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