Thursday, August 25, 2011

Working Hard While Remaining Unemployed

It's funny how that thought can rationalize itself. With thunderstorms in Flagstaff, record highs in Idyllwild, a typical August in Las Vegas, and a lull in eBay sales I have been almost exclusively training in the gym.

As a mere mortal who has run the gamut of emotions when it comes to gym climbing I find that I can get the most out of my workout with a rough outline. Previously I have just mentally prepared, however as workouts get more complex (and as an experiment in posterity) I have turned to a notebook.

Nothing pictured below is new. I have gleaned everything from stronger climbers, magazines, or others blogs that seem to know what they're talking about, and tweaked these routines to be either easier or more difficult. So as an act of paying it forward hopefully this will give someone a fresh workout to up the general psych.*

Basically a 100 V-point race against the clock with an added Tri-Set component on the back end. Would up clearing 94 points (V5 problems and up) in 60 minutes then had to resort to problems under V5 for the remaining 6 pts. Tri-Sets were done in 5:00 blocks with no rest between stations and 10 minute rest between cycles.

Breakdown of the timed 100.

Still quite sore after the rest day. Untimed V-Scale rollercoaster. Had trouble getting back to V8 on the second ramp up.

Felt pretty rested even after climbing outside the day before. Ramped up and fell off ending moves of V9 and V10, projected for an hour, ramped down (Hard), then worked out 1/3 of a Tri-Set including a campus board workout.

Maybe my brain was trying to protect me because this was actually my 3rd day on. A new workout circuiting every V4 and under in the gym. 58 total problems. V3's and under done wearing an 8lb weighted vest.

*As a side note I have been making use of the community pool and trying to swim 15-30 laps per day. I'm not sure if there is any science behind this, but the fluid resistance of the water seems to ameliorate climbing hot spots such as fingers, wrists and shoulders. Has anyone else experienced this?

Happy climbing!



  1. Gotta get those 100 point days to be v7 and up only. Best training available at R2C2.

  2. Definitely. Already feeling a bit fitter this week. It takes a minute to get back in that high volume workout mode.

  3. I tried this with couple of buddies of mine last night. I've done versions of this before, but I've never done the 100pt/1hr challenge before. I think this is awesome, especially when the gym hasn't re-set the boulder problems in a while and everything is old an uninspiring to get on again. It gets you psyched to get back on the wall, instead of sitting around, chatting in-between attempts on a project. And the tri-sets are just icing on the cake, painful, hate-educing icing that is. I can barely lift my arms up to type this message, I'm getting pumped - so I'll catch you later. Keep it up!