Yesterday evening we made the drive out to climb the boulder, where I was happy to scope out a nice logical line starting from the bottom left side of the boulder and trending right and up the steepest part of the face. The beta I used made for a really enjoyable compression line with big moves to flat sidepull edges. Grading is becoming more and more of a mystery to me, though it felt somewhere in the 9 range...
I also looked at a line that went straight up the belly, starting low on a bad sloper and a sidepull, and though I messed around with a few options I wasn't able to unlock the full line. From a standing position I was able to start off slightly better opposing sidepull edges with off balanced feet and chuck to a flat edge over the bulge. My feet cut and it was all I could do to hold on to the top. Again, I was happy to find the stand harder than I thought (around 8 points probably) so the sit will no doubt be TOUGH! More photos of this line to come...
But by far the best part of this roadside boulder is that it has nice warm ups and moderate variations from V0-V3.
-BLOCHEAD
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