Shark Tooth and Poison Control Video

Here's another video I just finished highlighting a couple more problems that are not included in the current guidebook.



The first line, Shark Tooth V9, was put up by Paul Nadler a couple years ago and has seen one other ascent that I know of by my buddy Andrew Spencer.

The crux involves holding tension and body position on smooth sloping holds that see sun all afternoon. Definitely a temperature dependent boulder, but a tough and satisfying problem regardless. We got lucky with some overcast weather and a cool breeze on the day of filming.

The second problem is one that has been bugging me for a while. Ever since heading out to Andrew Spencer's neoclassic Spittin' Vemon I have been looking at the arete to the right. Two years ago I was able to do it from a lame crouching start that felt forced and since then I have always wanted to take some time and figure out a full sit start.

Two days ago I sat under the arete again and found a highly improbable sloping mono dish that I began using as a joke, however once I found the right feet and body position I was able to utilize this little guy for the first ascent of the full sit start! I named the line Poison Control and have no idea how hard it is. It felt around V9, but I'd love to hear some consensus. Get out there, grab the second ascent and know what you think. In the mean time enjoy the video!

-BLOCHEAD

This is What You Don't See

Here's the trailer of Damon's upcoming video about guiding lifestyle, exploration, and new boulders in Hueco Tanks. Lib and I both contributed to the camera work and there is an interview with yours truly about being a first year guide. The full video should be coming soon to DPM's The Stash so keep an eye out!



-BLOCHEAD

Keystone Light Video

Here's another video I finished editing of the second ascent (?) of my buddy Craig Berman's line Keystone Light. This line is listed on page 338 of Tom Moulin's guidebook and although it receives 0 stars it's definitely worth checking out.



Craig made the first ascent of this line in a single day effort and gave it a tentative grade of V9. If you haven't climbed with the Bermanator he is very strong on anything involving flexibility and shoulder tension. This line is the epitome of those specific strengths.

I sent Keystone Light yesterday after two prior days of serious effort and felt that it was a very distinct step above any V9 that I have climbed and therefore gave it a personal grade of V10. Again, talk of grades can be tedious, but I thought I would offer some insight into my use of the title "Keystone Light V10?"

Whether it is this grade or that grade I hope this video gets you psyched to get up there and snag an early ascent. If you do drop me a line and tell me what you think about it.

-BLOCHEAD

Innocent Exile Video

It's always an adjustment switching rock types. After a few days of remembering how to climb on the small sandstone edges and oblique features offered here in Vegas (read: getting stomped) I have managed to enjoy some success on a new boulder that local developer Bill McLamore showed me. I was there to see Bill's first ascent of this crimpy 45 degree line he dubbed Innocent Exile and was so psyched that I threw myself at it two days in a row to no avail, completely demolishing my skin in the process.

The weekend storm proved useful by forcing a little rest and allowing my skin to grow back and I was able to nab the second ascent yesterday afternoon!



As for the grade it's always hard to say. Bill and I both though it to be in the 10 range. The crux is fairly specific and revolves around getting to, holding on, and moving off a very small crimp with a sharp tooth in it.

I know this is a lot of grade spray and it doesn't matter in the end, but since this line is so new I thought I would share. It would be great to get some more people on it and hear your opinions!

-BLOCHEAD

The End of a Season, The End of a Trip

When Lib and I arrived in Hueco the Lone Star State flag was still flying high for all to see above the Hueco Rock Ranch. However after three months of constant exposure there was scarcely enough fabric left to even call it a flag. Driving out with West Mountain in the rear view mirror I felt akin to the scrap of flag stranded forever to its fate atop the lonely pole.

The past three months were incredible, and I was able to finish nearly everything I was motivated to send without injury, something that never happens on a road trip. That said the desert is a harsh environment and the bouldering in the Tanks is nothing if it isn't physically demanding. It feels strange sitting here in Las Vegas after climbing full time for the majority of a year, but balance has always been a priority for me and I find that I'm surprisingly excited to get back to work and train on plastic. Leaving Hueco without future projects in mind is impossible so I'm as hungry as ever to get stronger for next season.

For those who have been following these ramblings for the past nine months of our trip I thank you for reading. And to all those great people I had the fortune of meeting along the way I hope that you're still out there living the dream.

See you down the road,
BLOCHEAD

The Faces of Hueco Brought a Sandstorm

Yesterday was the windiest I have ever experienced in Hueco. It was also the day we chose for our final adventure tour of the season, to the Summit of West Mountain. The Faces of Hueco were conspiring against us, as we had barely warmed up and tried a few lines before almost literally being blown off the mountain.

The Maze receiving a sandblasting.

The view from our perch near the summit of West Mountain.

Anthony attempting to warm up/climb The Poacher V8.

We sought shelter in the Bodysnatcher cave, bracing ourselves against gusts of wind that sent our pads nearly sailing down to ground level.

"10-76 Somewhere warm and preferably indoors"

Anthony getting in a quick send of the classic Bodysnatcher V4.

From Bodysnatcher we headed down to ground level to visit, pay respects, and appeal to the Faces of Hueco for the final time this season on our way to Crash Dummy.

Cold and drained from the constant wind we reached our final destination: Crash Dummy. This boulder remains high on my list for not only the grade, but of any problem I've climbed, Hueco or otherwise. I ran the obligatory lap on this gem and after battling his fatigue Anthony also made an ascent to cap off one of the more extreme days I've spent in the Tanks.

-BLOCHEAD

No, We're Not Going to Dragonfly

Or Better Eat Your Wheaties, or New Religion, or any of those boot rubber polished classics that gym rats wet dream about. With the weather driving us firmly out of project mode we have sought out some of the deeper cuts Hueco has to offer. The B-sides of the park. Presently we have ventured from the tip of the Spur in search of Acme Roof, Russian Woman, and Olga Forever to the top of West Mountain where we had the opportunity to climb on Best of the West, Planet Zeist, and KFC.

Tomorrow's Adventure Tour? BDI.

A handlebar jug? Only in Hueco.

Best of the West is just that.

The Spiky things here are trying to fool us with pretty flowers.

Planet Zeist.

-BLOCHEAD

Shroom Video

Here's a video of my buddy Andrew climbing a West Mountain classic. Enjoy!



-BLOCHEAD