A Season of Shenanigans

You can't always rock climb so here are some things you can do in Hueco when you're not ticking off sick V points, brah.

Take a load off.

Stage an epic Bomberman tourney.

Play with Legos while driving. Just kidding...

Enjoy the vivid imagery of El Paso restrooms.

Find hidden treasures in your bag of animal crackers.

Creep people out.

Practice your toe hooks in the kitchen.

-BLOCHEAD

P.S. B.P. An update for the FV2 Crew.

Pain Tolenrace Training

As a boulderer I am painfully aware of my place in the climbing community. I realize that I've become one of the many twenty-something drama queens and Prima donnas always complaining about one thing or another.

Living in Hueco for the season I have seen, heard, and used every complaint in the book. I struggle with the amount of griping I do at the boulders and I've decided to break the habit.

Now, I can't just go cold turkey and drop all my excuses so I've decided to curb the most common topic to bitch about: skin. I can't tell you how many times I hear climbers complain about how much their skin sucks at all hours of the day, myself included. These conversations typically leave me feeling a combination on envy, embarrassment, and irritation.

The result of the above conversations, coupled with hours of staring at my fingers has led me to slowly come to terms with my skin, chalking it up to pain tolerance training. After a full season of bouldering in Hueco my skin is beyond repair, and I'm okay with that.

-BLOCHEAD

Off the Books

A couple days ago I had the pleasure of helping out photographer Damon Corso on a video shoot for an upcoming project centered around Hueco backcountry guides climbing recently developed lines. It was a great collaborative effort and I'm excited to see the finished product. Keep an eye out on DPM's The Stash and on Damon's website.

On a side note fellow Evolv athlete Anthony Tarascio is here in Hueco for a month and has started his trip off in a big way with a single day effort of his first V12, The Flame. Nice job Anthony!

-BLOCHEAD

A Good Week

The weeks really fly by here in Hueco. It can be easy to just let them pass and disengage your memory while tending to other distractions. Skin, rest, forced rest, my project, your project. I'm as guilty as the next climber.

But this past week begs reflection, standing out as one of the best of the season. Yes, there was a good amount of sending for all, but there was also something in the weather, something in the company that all came together just so.

Yesterday, for Andrew's last day in Hueco and to round out his four mountain trip, we headed to East Mt. Perfect temperatures and a slight breeze laid the groundwork for our team of four to rack up a combined 64 points in new boulders.

I managed to put down one of my standing projects with a last ditch effort send of Liane V11. I first tried this boulder a few weeks ago and felt very satisfied with the slow, but measurable progress leading up to yesterday's send. This overlooked line is certainly one of the harder crimp boulders I've been able to finish.

Working Liane V11 earlier this season. Setting up for the crux foot cut.

Other highlights from the tour included Nate pulling out a very last minute send of Julio and Me V9, Andrew's send of Hector in a Blender V7, and Lib's impressive day flash of Baby Eckstein V7.

Names and numbers aside it was one of those days only found in Hueco. The perfect end of a great week.

-BLOCHEAD

Big News!

First off, here is the only picture worth posting from the past few days. And it's not of rock climbing.

Javelina's just off the trail.

With that out of the way a lot has happened in the last week or so. This past Tuesday I picked up my buddy Andrew from the airport, drove straight to the park, and headed out to the Spur. I had the pleasure of showing him around the Maze and the Gunks for the first time where he proceeded to have an awesome session enjoying all the Spur has to offer from Jigsaw Puzzle all the way to That Hi-Pro Glow. Along the way I had a great time repeating some choice classics and by the end of the day there was still a bit of time to try The Flame. We had fewer pads and spotters than any of my previous sessions and though a bit apprehensive, after a high point attempt and taking a full force back splat onto foam I felt safe to give it one more try before the corridor fell into complete darkness.

On my final try I was able to move my right heel higher than I had on previous efforts and squeezed hard on it for the big throw to the ear (a longer and more difficult move since a key hold broke a year or two ago). As I tossed, waiting for the familiar thud of pads against my back I felt my fingers latch and as if turning on the autopilot I adjusted my heel and a right hand before setting up for the second crux - a throw to the sloping lip. I felt a scream escape as I leaped for the lip and to my shock and amazement I stuck, scrambling as fast as possible to the top of the boulder. It's moments like these that I live for, the split second of suspending every doubt, the lightness and freedom of movement, and amazement of what the body is capable of. It's sure to be a send that will stand out and appreciate as time goes on.

The following day we headed back for a full day on the Spur, rounding out the tour with a few new problems and areas before heading up to Bush League. Before I even had a chance to call in our 20 on the radio Lib was arranging pads and mentally preparing for her project. With the pads arranged the motivation too high to wait any longer Lib fired the line first try in perfect style, leaving us all saying, "Well, what's next?"

I'm sure by this point, if you're still reading you might be wondering what this "Big News!" is all about...

I'm proud to announce that I've been invited to join evolv's amazing team of athletes for the 2012 roster and I'll be happily accepting! Ever since meeting and climbing with Isaac Palatt, one of evolv's original athletes, I have been nothing but impressed by their team's enthusiasm and positive outlook on climbing. In the past eight months on the road I have had the pleasure of once again meeting up with Isaac, but also climbing with and befriending Anthony Tarascio and Jesse Bonin, both excellent people ambassadors and very talented climbers. It goes without saying that evolv has a huge presence both in the US and abroad so I feel very lucky to be part of the team!

-BLOCHEAD

Progress

The past few days have been rough on the body and skin, but good for the mind. I've been spending a good amount of time in the backcountry chasing projects with a few other like minded people and though there haven't been any sends to report everyone has been hitting high points and making links.

Getting ready to step into the ring with The Flame.

A V12 with a meathook? Only in Hueco.

Lib working through the end crux of Bush League V8, a recent addition to the Gunks.

Reaching a new high point on The Flame, though this beta may or may not be the way to the top...

All photos by Liberty Herring. Except the one of her. Which I took. One-handed. With my eyes closed.

It looks like there might be a cold front on the way so I'm keeping my fingers crossed for some sending temps!

-BLOCHEAD