Mark of the Beast - West Mountain Style

Ending the year with another beautiful Hueco sunset.

After a final two-on stretch, I'm happily resting and reflecting not only on the past couple days, but the year in general. 2011 began with a cold day of punting at the basalt boulders of Carver with friends and ended with a "Commercial" tour consisting of just Lib and I wandering around East Mountain where I managed to punt once again on Full Service V10 but ended on a consolation flash of Something Different V8.

Without doubt it's been another year of trying to climb as much as possible, and I'm sure that 2012 will shape up to be the same.

Okay, so with all the year end nostalgia out of the way it's time to talk about the new circuit I was fortunate enough to pioneer with a good group this past Thursday. It's similar to the Mark of the Beast on East/East Spur in that it consists of 3 classic 6's, but takes both the climbing and the hiking to a totally new level, a West Mountain Level.

#1: Devil's Butthole V6

This 25+ foot roof climb is the shortest and probably easiest problem on the circuit. Be sure to take the full rest midway by crawling into the butthole and contemplating your existence. I've also heard a puma lives at the end it...

Emerging from the darkness of the Devil's Butthole V6.

#2: Corey the Pimp V6

A long, steep approach leads you to this long and steep wall. Known as the Norwegian Wall, this area is home to multiple long problems, the easiest of them being this 30+ foot jug haul littered with redpoint cruxes.

Andy finishing out the opening crux.

15 moves later in the middle of the pocket crux.

Maybe 10 moves after the pocket crux, the final top out crux into the toilet bowl.

#3: Long Dong V6

Hopefully your forearms have depumped and you still have some juice left for arguably the hardest and most classic problem of the circuit. I'm not sure how long this problem is, but this photo is a good reference.

Our landing strip of pads under Long Dong V6. The start holds are another 10ish feet below the last red pad.

Kim setting up for one of the final moves before a Thank God (Satan) jug.

Sticking the next move.

For only climbing three problems we were all worked at the end of the day. The Beast must have been smiling down at me that day because I was lucky enough to flash all three. Walking back around West Mountain to the parking lot we figured that we had climbed roughly 100 feet total.

So if you're looking for an adventure or a great endurance workout make sure to check this circuit out. And may the Beast be with you!

-BLOCHEAD

A Christmas Send and A Few Longshots

I hope everyone out there had/is having a great break and were able to both get outside and be with good people.

This year my Christmas present was waking up to a beautiful sunny morning, stretching, and looking out across the desert to the greatest bouldering destination in North America (biased? me?).

Christmas morning in Hueco. Snow and Sun.

The day only got better as we were only subjected to a brief delay at the gate before getting on North Mountain. The contrast of the park was like nothing I had seen. In the sun the brown and red rock sat perfectly dry, with holds casting sturdy shadows as if boasting at their rigidity. In the slivers and cloaks of shade however were clumps of snow, black shining patches of wet rock, and a sharp drop in temperature.

After two forced rest days I had a bad case of tunnel vision, and after a few quick laps on Baby Martini V6 I army crawled through the hole toward Tequila Sunrise V11/12 for what I hoped would be the last time.

After two solid, but inadequate attempts however I started to get nervous, and felt the dreaded epic coming on. Sun had just began to beat on the sloping hueco, and I knew I had one or two more tries left before calling it a day. As if that wasn't enough the few people that had offered pads and watched my two failed attempts had moved on leaving us with two regular sized pads and a lone spot from Lib.

Pulling on for a third attempt I felt the right hand crimp settle perfectly and just tried to maintain until the crux throw to the hueco. I set up, threw, focused on reeling in the wild swing, and was amazed to find myself still off the ground. From there I was into the no punt zone all the way to the somewhat highball top out. Luckily I still had enough juice to death grip all the crimps and rocked over onto the loose top.

This line was a battle for me. Both the angle and the style of climbing are things I have been striving to get better at, and it felt great to send something at what felt like my absolute limit.

With most of the day left I decided to try a few things that were going to be really challenging to see if there was anything I could work as a long term project. First up was Diabolique V13. I was happy to meet some people working the boulder and it made for a good session, though I was getting a thorough beating trying to levitate on some serious non-holds.

Attempting to grab the first non-hold on Diabolique V13.

Trying to throw off the right hand "pinch"

With the sun falling I decided to try a few moves on Diaphanous Sea V11/12, but found that working Diabolique had taxed me past the point of no return, and only tried for a few minutes.

The next day on North I was determined to try Fred Nicole's classic testpiece Alma Blanca V13. After a long warm up in the sun at the top of the chains we met up with a group working the nearby Daily Dick Dose V7. Without much thought and zero expectations I tried and managed to complete all the moves but "the move" which I think is pretty standard. "The move" involves sitting on a high heel hook and locking off further than any human should to a sloper at the lip. After trying this move in isolation a few times I tagged the sloper just for a split second, but in the words of my buddy Stephen Meinhold, "If you can touch it you can stick it."

Setting up for "The move" on Alma Blanca V13 while trying not to heel hook on my pinky finger.

With a harsh, but inspiring taste of what the next level felt like I dialed it down and finished off the day by sending a couple Hueco classics that had escaped me two years prior: Babyface V7 and See Spot Run V6. These lines have been eternally photographed and written about so I'll keep it short and just say that they will absolutely live up the the hype in movement, commitment, and difficulty.

Finally getting around to sending the world class Babyface V7.

Waking up this morning I noticed that the cars and tents at the Ranch had over doubled. It looks like the winter break rush is upon us and I'm excited for the inevitable and residual psych of people sending and experiencing Hueco Tanks.

Look forward to seeing everyone down here!

-BLOCHEAD

A Best Day and A Rest Day

It's so hard to not climb in Hueco Tanks. And though I'm here for another two months and change I still find myself climbing two or three days in a row until my skin feels like a wet napkin and hiking up to climbs hurts. Luckily the first two days of my recent three on were amazing.

Wednesday we got into the park late, and I figured it would still be a good half day to try things. After warming up on the classic Orifice Affair V1 (though it seems to have broken so maybe harder?) I decided to try The Wonder Dyno V10 to get the big muscles warm. Note: As with all one movers this problem gets anywhere from V-warm up to V-impossible.

I was surprised to find that after a couple tries my fingers managed to span the distance and stick the bottom lip of the jug. What a satisfying feeling! I had tried a couple years ago and hadn't even been close.

Another project from a couple years ago that I hadn't been close at all on was El Techo De Los Tres B, a unique roof with an odd sequence that used to be V13 until a hold broke and dropped it a couple grades so mortals could enjoy it.

There was a good group working the problem and after a couple tries and a key change of shoes I sent on my fourth try of the trip!

Setting up for the crux on El Techo De Los Tres B V11.

Spanning the move to the fingerlock.

I couldn't believe that all this was actually happening, but at the same time I was aware that days like this don't come around often. With that in mind I was eager to get back on Tequila Sunrise V11/12 before it got too dark.

But as we were approaching Martini Roof I had a sudden urge to try Black Mamba V10 a fearsome two-mover that had shut me down just a few days before. I told Lib that I was only allowed three tries on it before moving on. After failing on the first two I thought my luck had run out, however by some chance I stuck the lip on my third and final attempt and took it to the top.

By the time I reached Tequila Sunrise I was psyched, but feeling worked and on my best attempt managed to link through the hard lower moves into the V9/10 finish before hitting the pad going for the big move. Though I left without a send it was hard to feel anything but joy.

One move into the stand start on Tequila Sunrise V11/12.

Throwing for the hueco, just before hitting the pads.

After such a great day I was psyched just to hang out the next day, but had some unexpected success with a quick send of the short compression roof Schwerer Gustov V10/11. I also tried Tequila Sunrise again, but to no avail.

Yesterday, after riding such a successful two days on I was foolish enough to think I could keep it up, but my skin screamed in protest and the session was short-lived.

Now, after a windy night in our tent akin to sleeping in a jet engine it's snowing in El Paso and no one showed up for my second observed tour. But that's Hueco, the land of extremes.

-BLOCHEAD

Wild West Mountain

The first forced rest day here in Hueco is upon us. A harsh wind and rain alarm clock woke us up and drove us in to town where I poached a shave in a little diner bathroom after a plate of eggs and hash.

The forced rest doesn't come as too much of a shock, as bad weather rumors had been flying around the campfire since Friday. We planned accordingly and got a great day out on West yesterday, hitting a number of spots I had never been including Shroom and a newly developed Copp Out area.

We had a big group and a lot of success, hiking, and a few stops to check out the immaculate rock art. I managed to make quick work of a newer V8 dubbed Weiner in a Beaner (keeping true to the standard of offensive/vulgar Hueco names) as well as the very classic Shroom V9 before hiking down to ground level and ending the day on Crash Dummy, a strong contender for best V7 in Hueco.

The famous Starry Eyed Man.

The White Horned Dancer.

As we hiked out with the sun dipping behind us suddenly and a wild cackle erupted behind us, like a maniacal laugh at a joke I was desperately trying to understand. The tour stopped and turned simultaneously in confusion before someone said, "Coyotes" and it all made sense. The laughter sounded like a mass celebration, but for what I couldn't tell. It lasted for over five minutes, and became increasingly hard to determine if there were a few or a hundred out there on the wild and remote West Mountain.

-BLOCHEAD

The Hueco Effect

I've been in Hueco for 4 days. After the first day here it felt as if I never left. It has been awesome seeing familiar faces and meeting new ones alike as Lib and I fall into the rhythm of the Hueco season. There have been a lot of logistical things to take care of, but we have been climbing a fair amount as well.

Most of my psych has been dedicated to becoming a certified volunteer guide for the park. I took my first observed tour out today to the Maze which went really well and I'm scheduled for my second on the 23rd. I'm so excited to be guiding in the backcountry that I haven't even been thinking much about my personal goals, but I know one of them is getting to know the park, specifically West Mountain. There is something wild and mysterious about this monster and I'm looking forward to wandering around it this season.

The winter break crowd had scooped up most of January's North Mt. reservations so it will be easy to spend a good amount of time on other mountains.

Hopefully I'll be able to post some photos soon. Those who have been to Hueco will understand that there is something very magnetic about this place and it can be hard to do anything but climb in the first week or so.

With that said I hope everyone is getting out and having a great winter. See you out there!

-BLOCHEAD

Kraft - The 50/50 Solo Circuit

Hueco bound tomorrow. Though Vegas has been the home base since August it still feels like I haven't spent much time here this season. With another three months or so on the road, I decided to go out for one last solo session in Kraft. The goal was to rack up 100 points of both new ascents and repeats of classics.

This circuit turned out to be half classic and half overlooked lines, was a great way to keep moving, covered almost the entire boulder field from The Cube to the Monkey Bar boulder, and works well if you're on a solo mission as all the problems listed are a safe height and you can move quickly.

I know that heading out alone to the gym or the boulders can be hard, and finding motivation takes a lot of work so I thought I would share this circuit as something fun to try or at least give some ideas of new problems to check out.

Note: Tom Moulin's Southern Nevada Bouldering guidebook is a must have resource for navigating the more obscure problems. It's worth the coin!

The 50/50 Solo Circuit

Problems: 27
Grade Range: V1-V9/10
Length: Approx. 4 hours
Area: Kraft Boulders

Start: Lava Boulder Near The Cube (Pg. 287).

1. Left Left V2
2. Red Ball Jets V3
3. Squeeze Job V1
4. The Groove V1
5. Thumbs Up V1
6. Thumbs Up Variation V2
7. Arete Left V3

Chess Boulder

8. Queen's Gambit V1
9. Right Face V3

The Shady Lady Boulder

10. Super Slap V7 (To save time and for safety while alone get to the no hands rest after mantling at ~5 feet then turn and jump back on to your pad.)

Family Feud Area

11. Hound Dog Arete V4
12. Butterfly Kiss V3
13. Square Arete V7
15. Ultimate Grandstaff SDS V7

Barndoor Boulder Area

16. Sergeant Hightower V10 (There are other reported ways of making this problem considerably easier, however I couldn't seem to find any of them. Grade accordingly...)

Main Area

17. The Black Bitch V2
18. Smiley Face V1
19. Fin Face V1
20. Potato Chips V2
21. Southeast Face V3

NW of The Angel Dyno Boulder

22. The Prowler V7 (A nice recent addition by Andrew Rosenzweig)

Monkey Bar Boulder

23. Monkey Bars V2 (A.K.A. Monkey Bar Left)
24. Classic Monkey V6 (A.K.A. Monkey Bar Right)
25. Monkey Bar Traverse V7
26. Monkey Bar Direct V8
27. Monkey Bar Direct Right V9

Total points: 103

And you're done! I know there are a lot of classics between #22 and # 23 and I would have liked to some of them, but with the limited daylight and energy they will have to wait for another circuit in the future.

As I'm finishing this post I can see the gloomy sky and light rain out the window. It couldn't be a better time to hit the road for HUECO TOMORROW!

-BLOCHEAD

Moe's Valley Day Trip

For all the time I've semi-lived and climbed in Las Vegas I had never been to Moe's until yesterday.

After a quick ride up the 15 and through the VRG we found the boulders just outside of St. George. You literally drive off a dead end street into some dirt, wind around a bit and there they are.

The day played out like a long gym session with rapid fire attempts and a lot of moving around. I racked up a 57 point circuit in the few hours before it was too dark to boulder with highlights including The Swan V7, Lindner's Roof V9, and a flash of the classic IsRail Direct V8. The rock was surprisingly steeper and more bullet than I expected. I also tried, and came pretty close to sending, Show of Hands V11, but the excuses set in and it will have to wait until next time.

Striking a pose on Lindner's Roof V9.

And though another Moe's day trip won't trump our departure for Hueco in a few days I'll be sure to get back once we're back in Vegas.

It looks like there is already a big crew down in Hueco getting things done and I'm psyched to get down there and keep the motivation high!

-BLOCHEAD

Kill On Sight Video

If you read my last post you'll know that the motivation to stay in Bishop was dwindling. We're back in Las Vegas now on a brief respite before hitting the road again for the last hurrah of our now six month long road trip. And what better way to end a road trip than spending a couple months in the greatest bouldering destination in North America: Hueco Tanks. This will be my first year guiding in Hueco and it's safe to say I'm psyched out of my mind.

Meanwhile I've been splitting time between playing Call of Duty, resting my skin, and getting out to the Kraft boulders every now and again. For some reason I've been magnetizing toward one-movers, and while they mostly end in heartbreak and frustration, I've managed to put down a couple including Super Slap V7, Launch Code V9, and a variation to Craig Berman's Paraplegic V9 which uses the same starting hold but cuts out right using a high drop knee, which I thought might be around V8 and makes for a cool tension move similar, but harder than the opening move on Acid Wash V10 in the Happies.

I've also cut together one of the few videos we captured in Bishop, as we were more focused on taking photos and hanging out with new and old friends. So here it is, a bare bones edit of my send of Kill On Sight V12. Pardon the rebel yells.



Also I'm not sure why it's embedding in the size of a postage stamp. Normal size here.

-BLOCHEAD