Don't Take a Rest Day on Sunday

Or you'll end up like this:

That was taken a few minutes ago. As you can probably guess it's Sunday and everything is closed.

Yesterday and the day before we climbed, and I managed to make a major breakthrough by flashing Dunkin Donuts V10. The line is in the Raiden area of Left Fork after a 10 minute hike directly uphill over pure choss (as with most approaches here).

Dunkin Donuts V10.

Another angle of Dunkin Donuts.

The lack of photos of me on the line is because we only brought one camera and were recording video of the flash. The problem begins with a few easier moves off pinches and underclings until you have to load up and throw full extension (for me) to a bad sloper. I was worried before trying because this move is looked very accurate, but somehow I managed to snag the worst possible part, stick, and adjust.

With two climbing days left here in Joe's I'm taking every additional send as a bonus. It's been a great two weeks and I'm already excited to get back to Las Vegas and start editing footage for the fourth and final part of the 5,000 Miles project. It's going to be epic. So far we have 14 problems ranging from V2-V11 with V9 and V10 flashes and a V6 flash from Lib.

And remember if you come to Joe's try not to schedule Sunday as a rest day...unless you're into that kind of thing.

-BLOCHEAD

Another Update From the Castle Dale Public Library

Over the past two days the highs dropped into the mid 40's and though it made for a cold camping situation, the rock felt amazing.

Tuesday we started off in Dairy Canyon where fellow road tripper Matt Pincus cleaned up some unfinished business on the bulging cliff band and Lib made an impressive flash of Vertical Ice V6.

Once good and warm we headed up the canyon to a beautiful black face right off the road. I had wanted to try Black #1 V12 since I had first seen it a few days ago and was happy to find that it climbs as good as it looks. If I were staying longer I would definitely put some more days into it.

In the afternoon Matt convinced us to hike up to what he called "One of the best boulder problems in Joe's." Pretty hard to pass up. He was also kind enough not to sugar coat the enormity of the hike. After about a 30 minutes charging directly uphill over loose rock and sand we finally turned the corner to this prize line.

The photos and video won't do this line justice. It might be the most beautiful piece of rock I've climbed on. Perfectly smoothed out other than the bare minimum to climb on, remote setting, the only line on the boulder, interesting holds, fairly proud, and sustained enough to keep it spicy. I could go on, but by now I think you get the idea.

After a few minutes recovering from the hike Matt laced up and gave a warm up burn, slipping off a crux sloper toward the end.

Matt Pincus on his first burn of Godsend V9.

I waited until I couldn't take it anymore, taped up my finger for the opening campus move to a mono (yes, you read that correctly) and pulled on to the boulder. With a lot of luck I managed to stick each move perfectly and before long I was on top of the boulder. Breathing hard and still in shock, I realized I had flashed one of the most stunning boulder problems I have ever attempted. Look for the not so smooth flash footage in our Joe's video.

The opening campus move to a perfectly sculpted mono pocket.

Yes, campusing to a mono...

Matt sent next go in much better style, and we basked under the boulder until a brewing storm kicked us down the hill.

We finished up the day with a lap on the very classic, but seemingly overlooked Shadow of Death V6.

The following morning was cooler than the last. After a quick breakfast we fled down the canyon to New Joe's where I had hoped to try Ghost King V11.

I was happy to see a crowd around the famous problem, and quickly found myself working out the involved movement.

As soon as I had everything figured out the group moved out and I was alone with 3 pads and a gigantic boulder problem looming over me. After a decent attempt, falling at the crux campus move over the lip I rested until the sending breeze blew in and it was time to try again.

Ghost King, featured on the cover of the guidebook.

After a series of rebel yells I managed to stick the flat ledge over the lip and assumed the hardest part of the climb was over. Technically it was, however I had not practiced the top out (as the video will clearly show) and found myself death gripping holds as my fingers numbed out and the wind whipped at my back.

In the end I somehow I managed to claw my way up for a an ugly, scary, yet memorable ascent of this classic line.

More updates from the Castle Dale Public Library in two days time.

-BLOCHEAD

More Joe's

Eight days and nearly 50 new boulder problems later I still feel as if I'm just scratching the surface here in Joe's. After an awesome week with the Flagstaff crew it's going to take a little more trickery to rally pads for some of the highball classics. Luckily, there are still a few groups of people here for the long haul and the motivation seems high as the projected forecast shows good temps in the coming week.

Meanwhile we went to check out Playmate of the Year V9 in the Cabin Fever area of the Right Fork. This problem is well worth the hike and I was happy to send second try after nearly flashing. There are a few other worthy problems in the area as well including Electric Fence V7 and Stinky V9 which ends in a wild slap to fine grain slopers at the lip.

The perfect "boob" slopers on Playmate of the Year V9.

Before the Flagstaff crew left we had one last marathon session starting in Dairy Canyon and finishing up with a night session on Scary Monsters V6. Everyone wound up sending something and feeding off each other's energy. It reminded me of a session in Leavenworth with some good friends back in the spring.

Highlights of the day included witnessing one of Flagstaff's top female climbers crush two V9's in a day, a delicious peanut butter and pumpkin butter sandwich, the crazy beta used for Cow Bell V8, and flashing Scary Monsters at dusk, just before it became too dark to see the holds.

With just over a week left it will be exciting to see what we can manage to finish and what projects will have to wait for another trip.

-BLOCHEAD

Joe's Valley is Beautiful

We've been here for a week now and it's been great. The autumn colors against the brown and black rock make for a perfect setting. Combined with the unique movement and varied angles of the problems and I couldn't think of a better place to spend these last weeks of October.

There's been a lot of flashing, sending, failing, and scoping, but here are a few bouldering related highlights:

Getting ready to climb The Angler V2. A great warm up next to the river.

Lib made short work of a few classic V5's including Kill By Numbers and Smoothie as well as a near flash of Chips V7 (We'll be back to New Joe's soon for her to finish it off.)

Lib on G2-07, V7

I've been circuiting through the classic V6's and 7's in the area. The most enjoyable so far being Wills of Fire, Dirty Harry, Pocket Rocket, Planet of the Apes, and Bring the Heatwole.

We managed to get some flash footage of Worst Case Scenario V9. It's sloppy, but that's what flashes are, right?

Last night after climbing on the invalid drop-offs of the Big Joe cave I decided to take advantage of the evening temps and try Hydrogenated Oil V11. Though pockets (and certainly monos) are not typically my thing, the climb looked very aesthetic and after trying a couple times I managed to figure out some beta and surprised myself by chucking big and sinking the jug while locked off near my arm pit.

With a couple weeks left I'm not sure what to try. There seems to be an endless amount of quality here so it's tough to sort out which problems to give the most skin to. If anyone reading has suggestions I'd love to hear them.

-BLOCHEAD

One Year Later: Back to Joe's

Almost exactly a year ago I spent two days in Joe's. I know, hardly enough time to even warm up. This year we'll be going back for...as long as we can. After a couple rest days the cameras batteries and the psych are fully charged and ready to go!

-BLOCHEAD

5,000 Miles - Part 3: Priest Draw

The third installment of the 5,000 Miles Project. Shot over two weeks while camping in Priest Draw, Flagstaff, AZ.

Equipment:
Canon 5D Mark ii
Canon 7D
24-70mm f2.8L
28-135mm f3.5

Problems in order or appearance:
Triangle Arete V0
Bad Ass V5
Cosmic Tricycle V10
Bat Roof V3
Carnivore Direct V9
Warm Up Boulder V0
Wife Beater V7/8
The Receptionist V10
Anorexic V6
The Girl From Ipanema V11
She Lives V6/7

Music in order of appearance:
Big Bill Broonzy - This Train (Bound For Glory)
Take - After Words
Mick Harvey - Out of Time Man
Trouble - Beat Konducta

Special Thanks:
Flashed
Seagull Climbing
All the friendly Flagstaff locals for beta and psych!

-BLOCHEAD

While We Were Out

A few stills from Part 3. The two camera set up and new lens is bringing this project into the big leagues.

Morning frost.

f2.8

Where the eff are the raisins!?

-BLOCHEAD

Wrapping Up Part 3

A still from the Priest Draw segment of the 5,000 Miles Project.

The Priest Draw edit is coming along well. Since this will be the first part shot entirely on Canon we're really trying to go all out. It looks like we'll be headed back to Priest Draw for some additional footage and hopefully more problems. So far we have a wide array of classics, nine in total, but there are so many good lines it will be hard not to include them all. As the temperatures drop and more areas come into season it looks as if it will be a busy and exciting fall.

-BLOCHEAD

Trips Extended & Trips Postponed

The wide open skies over Priest Draw.

It's been a while since I last posted, however I can assure you Lib and I have been hard at work filming and climbing in Priest Draw, AZ.

Roughly two weeks ago I was staring down at the brutal flapper I got in Black Mountain, restless about when I could get back. In the meantime the climbing in Priest Draw offered a break on the tips and the weather was looking good.

We originally only planned for a few days, but after meeting and climbing with some very gracious locals we just couldn't seem to leave. (Thanks again Adrianne and Dustin!)

Ten days later, only when a pending engagement in Las Vegas was drawing near, we finally tore ourselves away from the immaculate limestone roofs.

On the plus side we came home with was a TON of footage of classic from V0-V10, however Lib's trusty steed may need another repair. In short, this means that as much as we would love to head back to Black Mountain it looks less and less likely.

So in true road tripping spirit we're adapting. Look for the next installment of our 5,000 miles project from Priest Draw in the next couple weeks.

While you're waiting here is a short from the footage we managed to get during our brief trip to Black Mountain. Hopefully we can get back sooner than later. Big thanks to Isaac for helping us out. Enjoy!



-BLOCHEAD