On the way out we saw a huge tarantula smack in the middle of the trail. He didn't move a muscle, but let us take some photos. No autographs though.
All photos by Liberty Herring.
-BLOCHEAD
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Stand and Deliver and Tarantula
Rest day hike to Juniper Canyon. Unfortunately even though it's a few degrees cooler up there it's still too hot for the slippery hands and feet of Stand and Deliver V11.
At least you have awesome foot holds.
On the way out we saw a huge tarantula smack in the middle of the trail. He didn't move a muscle, but let us take some photos. No autographs though.
All photos by Liberty Herring.
-BLOCHEAD
On the way out we saw a huge tarantula smack in the middle of the trail. He didn't move a muscle, but let us take some photos. No autographs though.
All photos by Liberty Herring.
-BLOCHEAD
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Black Mountain
Armed with a near decade old Dr. Topo printout, directions from my buddy Isaac, and a car full of foam, Lib and I made our way to Black mountain for a few days of climbing and shooting.
We arrived the day before the weekend migration from LA, and managed to secure a prime campsite overlooking the entire valley below. With some daylight left we decided to put our topo to use and check out the Boulder Basin Campground area. We soon got our got our bearings and began to take advantage of the cooling temps.
Lib made quick work of a short overhanging V4 face, and after warming up a bit I decided to strap a headlamp on and give an end of the day burn on Transmaniacon, which our topo listed as V7/8.
After a botched flash burn I found a way to force choke this awkward pinch and somehow stuck a desperate throw to the larger edge above. At this point I was torn. I had to finish the boulder, however I hadn't even looked at the top when it was still light out, and now I had to onsight it by headlamp. Luckily, I found an elusive granite edge while fishing around in the dark and made it work. It wasn't until later that I found out this problem has been regraded as a V9.
The following day we met up with Isaac and the rest of the Southern California strongmen and women. Hot off a speeding ticket Isaac and company dusted up the dirt road, tossed all non-bouldering gear out, and saddled up for the hike out to the Tour de France boulder.
I had seen enough photos of this boulder that I felt like I had already climbed on it. With some helpful beta I made a quick ascent of the stand, and watched in wonder as Brett smoothly put together the bottom series of fingerlocks, drop knees and opposing tension that lead into the stand.
From there we headed over to Captain America, where we set up and shot a great sequence of Isaac's ascent. He was even nice enough to repeat it for another angle. After putting the camera down I managed to send third try after receiving a heinous flapper. The psych was high because Kris and Brett sent quickly as well.
Setting up for the final move to the lip on Captain America V9.
With daylight burning, we decided to head down to the Visor area and on to Ex-Patriot.
I'm pretty sure Lib didn't want to climb anything except for Center Visor V6, because we had hardly gotten the pads off our backs before she was down under the roof fondling holds and chalking up. All the built up psych paid off with a second try send of her first V6!
By the time we made the hike down to Ex-Patriot V11 I was running on fumes. After topping out 8 new boulder problems coupled with some involved approaches I had to give it to Black Mountain. The problems are just too good to pass up.
When I rounded the corned and saw the stunning blocked roof of Ex-Patriot I knew that this was the aesthetic triumph of the day. With newly recharged motivation I made a few decent attempts, and the entire hike out found myself thinking of getting on this king line fresh.
That evening around the picnic table I had the pleasure of getting to know most of the core climbing community of Black Mountain. It was one of the best evenings I've had since my stay in Hueco a couple years back.
The following morning we had the good fortune of touring another sector of the mountain with Anthony Tarascio, a strong Black Mountain local and gifted culinary student. In single file we wove around the mountain, ducked low trees, balanced across logs, and just as it felt like we were going to be swallowed up we came to a clearing with giant boulders perched delicately along the hillside. With little shade to be found we threw pads under the unrepeated Das Atrium V9.
Getting into the crux of Das Atrium V9.
Anthony crossing to a pinch high above.
Seeing little success on the highly technical line, I moved to an arete on the same which Anthony put up called Thumbs V6. After figuring out the tricky barn door crux I managed to scramble up for the second ascent of the line.
Next stop was a boulder Isaac had been talking about all weekend, the Wild Things boulder. Upon reaching, and circling the boulder I can safely say it's worth talking about. Proud, high quality rock, with satisfying dynamic movement yielding V8-V13 isn't something you can find anywhere.
An early attempt of Where the Wild Things Are V8 (stand start).
Isaac entering the high crux.
The nicely manicured landing.
Though only Anthony was able to repeat the line we all made a good amount of progress. I was beginning to feel the effects of being three days on and decided to try a few surrounding lines before calling it a day. Anthony came over to join me in my attempts on Tripwire V9 and wound up making the second ascent of the problem.
We hiked out in a red and purple glow, said our goodbyes as the crew packed up, and headed back to a now abandoned campsite. As I write this I'm reminded of how great it felt to climb with a motivated group. With such an amazing first experience at Black Mountain it's safe to say I'll be back soon.
A personal thank you to Isaac Palatt and Anthony Tarascio for the incredible guiding and beta. I'm pretty sure I'd still be trying to find my way around up there otherwise.
P.S. Here is my souvenir from Captain America (Once it finally stopped bleeding).
-BLOCHEAD
All photos by Liberty Herring.
We arrived the day before the weekend migration from LA, and managed to secure a prime campsite overlooking the entire valley below. With some daylight left we decided to put our topo to use and check out the Boulder Basin Campground area. We soon got our got our bearings and began to take advantage of the cooling temps.
Lib made quick work of a short overhanging V4 face, and after warming up a bit I decided to strap a headlamp on and give an end of the day burn on Transmaniacon, which our topo listed as V7/8.
After a botched flash burn I found a way to force choke this awkward pinch and somehow stuck a desperate throw to the larger edge above. At this point I was torn. I had to finish the boulder, however I hadn't even looked at the top when it was still light out, and now I had to onsight it by headlamp. Luckily, I found an elusive granite edge while fishing around in the dark and made it work. It wasn't until later that I found out this problem has been regraded as a V9.
The following day we met up with Isaac and the rest of the Southern California strongmen and women. Hot off a speeding ticket Isaac and company dusted up the dirt road, tossed all non-bouldering gear out, and saddled up for the hike out to the Tour de France boulder.
I had seen enough photos of this boulder that I felt like I had already climbed on it. With some helpful beta I made a quick ascent of the stand, and watched in wonder as Brett smoothly put together the bottom series of fingerlocks, drop knees and opposing tension that lead into the stand.
From there we headed over to Captain America, where we set up and shot a great sequence of Isaac's ascent. He was even nice enough to repeat it for another angle. After putting the camera down I managed to send third try after receiving a heinous flapper. The psych was high because Kris and Brett sent quickly as well.
With daylight burning, we decided to head down to the Visor area and on to Ex-Patriot.
I'm pretty sure Lib didn't want to climb anything except for Center Visor V6, because we had hardly gotten the pads off our backs before she was down under the roof fondling holds and chalking up. All the built up psych paid off with a second try send of her first V6!
By the time we made the hike down to Ex-Patriot V11 I was running on fumes. After topping out 8 new boulder problems coupled with some involved approaches I had to give it to Black Mountain. The problems are just too good to pass up.
When I rounded the corned and saw the stunning blocked roof of Ex-Patriot I knew that this was the aesthetic triumph of the day. With newly recharged motivation I made a few decent attempts, and the entire hike out found myself thinking of getting on this king line fresh.
That evening around the picnic table I had the pleasure of getting to know most of the core climbing community of Black Mountain. It was one of the best evenings I've had since my stay in Hueco a couple years back.
The following morning we had the good fortune of touring another sector of the mountain with Anthony Tarascio, a strong Black Mountain local and gifted culinary student. In single file we wove around the mountain, ducked low trees, balanced across logs, and just as it felt like we were going to be swallowed up we came to a clearing with giant boulders perched delicately along the hillside. With little shade to be found we threw pads under the unrepeated Das Atrium V9.
Seeing little success on the highly technical line, I moved to an arete on the same which Anthony put up called Thumbs V6. After figuring out the tricky barn door crux I managed to scramble up for the second ascent of the line.
Next stop was a boulder Isaac had been talking about all weekend, the Wild Things boulder. Upon reaching, and circling the boulder I can safely say it's worth talking about. Proud, high quality rock, with satisfying dynamic movement yielding V8-V13 isn't something you can find anywhere.
Though only Anthony was able to repeat the line we all made a good amount of progress. I was beginning to feel the effects of being three days on and decided to try a few surrounding lines before calling it a day. Anthony came over to join me in my attempts on Tripwire V9 and wound up making the second ascent of the problem.
We hiked out in a red and purple glow, said our goodbyes as the crew packed up, and headed back to a now abandoned campsite. As I write this I'm reminded of how great it felt to climb with a motivated group. With such an amazing first experience at Black Mountain it's safe to say I'll be back soon.
A personal thank you to Isaac Palatt and Anthony Tarascio for the incredible guiding and beta. I'm pretty sure I'd still be trying to find my way around up there otherwise.
P.S. Here is my souvenir from Captain America (Once it finally stopped bleeding).
-BLOCHEAD
All photos by Liberty Herring.
Friday, September 9, 2011
Scare Tactics
A couple seasons ago a good friend of mine Andrew Spencer put up a new line on the varnished face opposite of Bubble Butt. After working through the stand he spent multiple days on the first move before sending the full line which he named Scare Tactics.
This problem went without a second ascent for quite a while, and not for lack of trying. The thing is hard. Then this video came out. (Skip to around 2:17 for the boulder problem.)
I was surprised to see the name spelled wrong (the correct name is listed in Tom's guidebook) but I was even more surprised to find that Andrew said he had begun from two parallel crimps, rather than an undercling. Had something broken? Was easier beta gleaned? Yesterday I went on a recon mission to find out.
From what I could tell looking at the problem nothing had obviously broken, but there could be subtleties escaping me. It looks as if people are opting to use a decent foot shelf out left and commit to a hard bump with the left hand as opposed to the violent drive by move used on the FA.
Starting position for undercling beta. The parallel crimp us just above my right hand.
Detail of the undercling.
Left hand dog-bone crimp.
I have yet to try either beta, but once the temps drop I am really psyched to put some work into this line. Regardless of how the problem ends up going much respect is due to Andrew for the vision on this beautiful crimpy testpiece.
-BLOCHEAD
This problem went without a second ascent for quite a while, and not for lack of trying. The thing is hard. Then this video came out. (Skip to around 2:17 for the boulder problem.)
I was surprised to see the name spelled wrong (the correct name is listed in Tom's guidebook) but I was even more surprised to find that Andrew said he had begun from two parallel crimps, rather than an undercling. Had something broken? Was easier beta gleaned? Yesterday I went on a recon mission to find out.
From what I could tell looking at the problem nothing had obviously broken, but there could be subtleties escaping me. It looks as if people are opting to use a decent foot shelf out left and commit to a hard bump with the left hand as opposed to the violent drive by move used on the FA.
I have yet to try either beta, but once the temps drop I am really psyched to put some work into this line. Regardless of how the problem ends up going much respect is due to Andrew for the vision on this beautiful crimpy testpiece.
-BLOCHEAD
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
Mt. Charleston - Labor Day Weekend
First off, I hope everyone reading this post had a fun weekend climbing or otherwise. I remember during my undergrad years in Chicago Labor Day weekend was the unofficial kick off to the Red River Gorge fall season. While I look back on those crazy 14 hour round trip weekend drives fondly I can't say I miss them.
Luckily the Mt. Charleston cave is only a short drive and a steep hike away, with plenty of worthwhile lines from V5 on up. Friday Lib and I hiked up on an active rest day for a sweat and a short session. I still needed to refine some micro beta for the project line in the cave, and after a lot of spinning around and sorting through a sea of limestone cobbles I managed to work something out that I thought could work.
The next day Lib and I met up with Isaac and his buddy Jeff for a longer session up at the cave. Hiking up we were fortunate enough to get a little cloud cover, but even with the shade that hike doesn't seem to get any easier.
Thirty-some minutes later we were hanging out in the cave, sweat soaked shirts cool in the light breeze. As for the climbing it was one of the most successful group experiences I've been around. The motivation was high, and it wasn't long before Isaac kicked off the send train with a smooth ascent of Happy Trail V9.*
From there the energy only got better with Lib and Jeff both making quick work of a long V5 that climbs out the deepest part of the cave which Lib dubbed Split Ends. Her send also confirmed the first female cave ascent, and therefore throwing out the possibility of calling it the Man Cave.
Having fallen on a few solid attempts on the project (including one after the crux) I thought I might be the one to spoil the group send, but the psych was too high, and before I realized that I had pulled off the ground I was setting up for the exit sequence and letting out a rebel yell as I scraped and thrutched to the top.
This line is by far the hardest first ascent I have been lucky enough to nab, and even though it's a link up the movement is so much fun, and really that's what the cave boils down to at the end of the day. Sticking with the body hair theme** I named the problem Unibrow (because it links two eyebrows of course) and suggested a grade of V11. As for the grade it may or may not stay, but it felt appropriate compared to the harder lines in the cave (Harder than Crown and Brazilian) but it's a different climb so I guess we'll have to wait and see. What really matters is that everyone finished something and walked away with that sending smile plastered on their face as we hiked out by headlamp.
-BLOCHEAD
*Isaac's weekend spree didn't stop there. Keep an eye on his blog for more info and photos coming soon.
**Shave Cave anyone?
Luckily the Mt. Charleston cave is only a short drive and a steep hike away, with plenty of worthwhile lines from V5 on up. Friday Lib and I hiked up on an active rest day for a sweat and a short session. I still needed to refine some micro beta for the project line in the cave, and after a lot of spinning around and sorting through a sea of limestone cobbles I managed to work something out that I thought could work.
The next day Lib and I met up with Isaac and his buddy Jeff for a longer session up at the cave. Hiking up we were fortunate enough to get a little cloud cover, but even with the shade that hike doesn't seem to get any easier.
Thirty-some minutes later we were hanging out in the cave, sweat soaked shirts cool in the light breeze. As for the climbing it was one of the most successful group experiences I've been around. The motivation was high, and it wasn't long before Isaac kicked off the send train with a smooth ascent of Happy Trail V9.*
From there the energy only got better with Lib and Jeff both making quick work of a long V5 that climbs out the deepest part of the cave which Lib dubbed Split Ends. Her send also confirmed the first female cave ascent, and therefore throwing out the possibility of calling it the Man Cave.
Having fallen on a few solid attempts on the project (including one after the crux) I thought I might be the one to spoil the group send, but the psych was too high, and before I realized that I had pulled off the ground I was setting up for the exit sequence and letting out a rebel yell as I scraped and thrutched to the top.
This line is by far the hardest first ascent I have been lucky enough to nab, and even though it's a link up the movement is so much fun, and really that's what the cave boils down to at the end of the day. Sticking with the body hair theme** I named the problem Unibrow (because it links two eyebrows of course) and suggested a grade of V11. As for the grade it may or may not stay, but it felt appropriate compared to the harder lines in the cave (Harder than Crown and Brazilian) but it's a different climb so I guess we'll have to wait and see. What really matters is that everyone finished something and walked away with that sending smile plastered on their face as we hiked out by headlamp.
-BLOCHEAD
*Isaac's weekend spree didn't stop there. Keep an eye on his blog for more info and photos coming soon.
**Shave Cave anyone?
Monday, September 5, 2011
Reel Rock Tour VI
Thanks to the Clark County Public Library we'll be able to check out all of this radness and madness on October 14th! If you're in or near the Las Vegas area make sure to check it out and support a great FREE event.
Meanwhile check out the trailer to get psyched while sweating it out for another five weeks.
-BLOCHEAD
Meanwhile check out the trailer to get psyched while sweating it out for another five weeks.
-BLOCHEAD
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
