This is the only video we managed to shoot from our week trip to Bishop. I could blame the high winds blowing sand everywhere, but it just came down to being more psyched to climb rather than shoot. Balancing the two is always hard on such short trips when you're hoping to get as much mileage as possible in.
-BLOCHEAD
Thursday, March 31, 2011
Wednesday, March 30, 2011
Monday, March 28, 2011
Best of the Grade
I recently had a conversation about memorable ascents. It dawned on me that in just over four short years of climbing there were problems that I could not remember sending. This got me thinking about the ascents that I would never forget. Having just inched past the 200 mark for individual boulder problems completed I thought it would be good to look back at a few ascents that will stick with me for years to come.
This list is completely personal, however it is no surprise that many world class problems show up on here.
V0: Melon Patch, Hueco Tanks, TX
Sometimes when you reach the top of a boulder problem it just isn't enough. You have to climb it again immediately. Melon Patch is one of those problems. The only line on the boulder, this tall face with its distinctive white chalked huecos is a perfect warm up for the body and the mind.
Honorable Mentions:
- 7-10 Split, Hueco Tanks, TX
- Poker Chips, Red Rocks, NV
V1: Heavenly Path, Bishop, CA
I make sure to climb this problem every time I'm in Bishop. A photogenic line with just enough commitment at the lip. A great place to soak up some sun, warm up, and climb this problem again and again.
Honorable Mentions:
- Orifice Affair, Hueco Tanks, TX
- The Fin, Priest Draw, AZ
V2: Nobody Here Gets Out Alive, Hueco Tanks, TX
No surprise here. This is one of the best lines of any grade let alone V2. Physical roof climbing between comfortable jugs to a tough lip encounter and easy headwall. Full value!
Honorable Mentions:
- Potato Chips, Red Rocks, NV
- The Vulgarian, Hueco Tanks, TX
V3: White Rastafarian, Joshua Tree, CA
After bailing once from the crux I managed to shut off the reasonable part of my brain and scramble to the top, heart racing. At one point I remember even cutting my feet from the jugs on the lip. Another boulder with only one perfect line on it. I'll never forget reaching the top of this one.
Honorable Mentions:
-Bum Boy, Horse Pens 40, AL
-Bat Roof, Priest Draw, AZ
V4: Moonshine Roof, Hueco Tanks, TX
Pure fun! This cave is seriously a jungle gym for adults.
Honorable Mentions:
- The Pearl, Red Rocks, NV
- Super Mario, LRC, TN
V5: Hammerhead, Horse Pens 40, AL
My first V5. A truly memorable send due to an epic top out that left burns on my forearms, thighs, and palms. Worth every bit of skin.
Honorable Mentions:
- Star Power, Hueco Tanks, TX
- Serengeti, Bishop, CA
V6: Meddle Detector, Hueco Tanks, TX
V6 is a great grade for classics, but this line takes the title hands down. Superb movement leading to a pumped out of your mind finish makes this tucked away backcountry line a true gem.
Honorable Mentions:
- Redneck, Horse Pens 40, AL
- Anorexic, Priest Draw, AZ
V7: High Plains Drifter, Bishop, CA
The climb that inspired this blog post. It just doesn't get much better than this. There might be other lines on this bloc, but this is the one worth doing. The fact that Dale Bard first climbed it without foam under him makes it all the more impressive.
Honorable Mentions:
- Sweet N' Low, Donner Summit, CA
- Caliman, Red Rocks, NV
V8: Monkey Bar Direct, Red Rocks, NV
My first experience with this line was as a V3 climber out in Kraft with a bunch of buddies from Chicago. We looked at the big spans between small holds in awe, imagining ourselves sticking just one move on the climb, let alone sending. This is one of those milestone ascents for me, something I make sure to get on whenever I'm hanging out in Kraft.
Honorable Mentions:
- Flat Spin, Mt. Charleston, NV
- Javelina, Hueco Tanks, TX
V9: Choir Boys, Hueco Tanks, TX
This ascent was another milestone for me. The movement is some of the best I've done, and this climb still represents the standard for the grade in my mind. I remember wanting to do this climb before I even laid eyes on it.
Honorable Mentions:
- Brevity, Donner Summit, CA
- Purple Flowers, Hueco Tanks, TX
V10: Americana Exotica, Red Rocks, NV
I don't truly feel qualified to weigh in on V10's yet, as I've only climbed five so far. That said Americana Exotica is a spectacular line that I really had to fight for. For nearly two weeks I would pack up some water, some tunes, a few snacks, and head out for a solo session on this problem. I would watch a lone cloud in the sky during rests, sometimes only giving a handful of attempts to the extremely physical problem, and head home. This went on for so long that just as I got used to just hanging out under the beautiful swirled wall I managed to finish the problem for its sixth ascent. Now whenever I see videos or photos of this neo-classic I think back to the time when I had it all to myself.
Honorable Mentions:
-Acid Wash, Bishop, CA
-Goin' Postal, Mt. Charleston, NV
-BLOCHEAD
This list is completely personal, however it is no surprise that many world class problems show up on here.
V0: Melon Patch, Hueco Tanks, TX
Sometimes when you reach the top of a boulder problem it just isn't enough. You have to climb it again immediately. Melon Patch is one of those problems. The only line on the boulder, this tall face with its distinctive white chalked huecos is a perfect warm up for the body and the mind.
Honorable Mentions:
- 7-10 Split, Hueco Tanks, TX
- Poker Chips, Red Rocks, NV
V1: Heavenly Path, Bishop, CA
I make sure to climb this problem every time I'm in Bishop. A photogenic line with just enough commitment at the lip. A great place to soak up some sun, warm up, and climb this problem again and again.
Honorable Mentions:
- Orifice Affair, Hueco Tanks, TX
- The Fin, Priest Draw, AZ
V2: Nobody Here Gets Out Alive, Hueco Tanks, TX
No surprise here. This is one of the best lines of any grade let alone V2. Physical roof climbing between comfortable jugs to a tough lip encounter and easy headwall. Full value!
Honorable Mentions:
- Potato Chips, Red Rocks, NV
- The Vulgarian, Hueco Tanks, TX
V3: White Rastafarian, Joshua Tree, CA
After bailing once from the crux I managed to shut off the reasonable part of my brain and scramble to the top, heart racing. At one point I remember even cutting my feet from the jugs on the lip. Another boulder with only one perfect line on it. I'll never forget reaching the top of this one.
Honorable Mentions:
-Bum Boy, Horse Pens 40, AL
-Bat Roof, Priest Draw, AZ
V4: Moonshine Roof, Hueco Tanks, TX
Pure fun! This cave is seriously a jungle gym for adults.
Honorable Mentions:
- The Pearl, Red Rocks, NV
- Super Mario, LRC, TN
V5: Hammerhead, Horse Pens 40, AL
My first V5. A truly memorable send due to an epic top out that left burns on my forearms, thighs, and palms. Worth every bit of skin.
Honorable Mentions:
- Star Power, Hueco Tanks, TX
- Serengeti, Bishop, CA
V6: Meddle Detector, Hueco Tanks, TX
V6 is a great grade for classics, but this line takes the title hands down. Superb movement leading to a pumped out of your mind finish makes this tucked away backcountry line a true gem.
Honorable Mentions:
- Redneck, Horse Pens 40, AL
- Anorexic, Priest Draw, AZ
V7: High Plains Drifter, Bishop, CA
The climb that inspired this blog post. It just doesn't get much better than this. There might be other lines on this bloc, but this is the one worth doing. The fact that Dale Bard first climbed it without foam under him makes it all the more impressive.
Honorable Mentions:
- Sweet N' Low, Donner Summit, CA
- Caliman, Red Rocks, NV
V8: Monkey Bar Direct, Red Rocks, NV
My first experience with this line was as a V3 climber out in Kraft with a bunch of buddies from Chicago. We looked at the big spans between small holds in awe, imagining ourselves sticking just one move on the climb, let alone sending. This is one of those milestone ascents for me, something I make sure to get on whenever I'm hanging out in Kraft.
Honorable Mentions:
- Flat Spin, Mt. Charleston, NV
- Javelina, Hueco Tanks, TX
V9: Choir Boys, Hueco Tanks, TX
This ascent was another milestone for me. The movement is some of the best I've done, and this climb still represents the standard for the grade in my mind. I remember wanting to do this climb before I even laid eyes on it.
Honorable Mentions:
- Brevity, Donner Summit, CA
- Purple Flowers, Hueco Tanks, TX
V10: Americana Exotica, Red Rocks, NV
I don't truly feel qualified to weigh in on V10's yet, as I've only climbed five so far. That said Americana Exotica is a spectacular line that I really had to fight for. For nearly two weeks I would pack up some water, some tunes, a few snacks, and head out for a solo session on this problem. I would watch a lone cloud in the sky during rests, sometimes only giving a handful of attempts to the extremely physical problem, and head home. This went on for so long that just as I got used to just hanging out under the beautiful swirled wall I managed to finish the problem for its sixth ascent. Now whenever I see videos or photos of this neo-classic I think back to the time when I had it all to myself.
Honorable Mentions:
-Acid Wash, Bishop, CA
-Goin' Postal, Mt. Charleston, NV
-BLOCHEAD
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Bishop: A Trip Report
A look back on our short week to Bishop:
Day 1 :
Enduring a little over half the drive (10 hours) in constant rain we stopped in the Tahoe area for the night. The next morning we drove the remaining 6 hours and reached The Pit in the early afternoon. After setting up our home for the next week we decided to get in some bonus climbing at the Happies.
Psyched!
Home sweet home.
It was warm in the canyon, but the sun was beginning to drop and to our surprise we had the area nearly to ourselves. I was just hoping to switch gears from plastic to real rock and warmed up slowly, running the obligatory lap on Heavenly Path, arguably the best V1 on the planet.
Fleeing the shadows on Heavenly Path, V1. Photo: Liberty Herring.
After walking around and reacquainting myself with the classics I decided to hop on Disco Diva, a problem I had worked on the previous year without success. After a couple warm up burns relearning the movement I was stunned to find myself at the top of the boulder. So much for unfinished business.
As far as I was concerned that was a good first day and I was happy spotting Lib as she almost flashed Groundwater, V5. The fatigue from the trip was slowly starting to set in, and after the Groundwater session we were talking about calling it a night, however Lib convinced me to jump on Acid Wash just to try it. This climb was one of my trip goals, and I was really psyched to try it, but skeptical as to how well I would perform. By now the sun was barely flickering over the west rim. The air cooling off and settling in for the night.
We walked up to the problem thew down a few pads with a guy from Brazil, furiously working on pulling out a send before he left the next morning. The psych was high, and before long I had my shoes laced and my hands on the start holds. My flash burn brought me all the way to the final hard move, a full extension bump off a poor sloping hold. My fingers grazed the final incut hold, but I wound up on the foam instead of the top.
Though I didn't flash, I was beyond motivated. This thing was going to go! My excitement got the best of me for the next hour as I struggled to get back to the crux, but as the headlamps came out and the sluggishness set in like a big meal I managed to stick the final hard move from the beginning and hung on all the way up, topping out in complete darkness save the light from my headlamp and a bright half moon.
Day 2:
My unofficial goal for the trip was to send something V8 or harder. With the pressure off we headed out to the Sads. Lib had tried the classic Anti-Hero last year and was ready for a rematch with the beautiful overhanging problem.
After working out all the movement, a series of big powerful moves to positive holds to a very core and bicep heavy undercling crux that left her stretched to her full extension, Lib was understandably tired. Steep climbing is tricky that way. You have to spend all this energy isolating moves and linking sequences, and by the time you're in redpoint mode there's no gas left.
I experienced the same thing after an hour or so relentlessly working Beefy Gecko later that day. I was more than happy to complete all the individual moves to a V11 in a day, regardless if the only thing I sent was a warm up V3. It's all about the progress.
That night we had some fun with long exposures of the Sierras in the moonlight.
Check out Orion's Belt!
Day 3:
Good ol' rest days.
Sore muscles and skin made for an obvious rest day. Had we gone to the Buttermilks to climb without fresh skin I'm sure we would have regretted it. Instead we spent the day hiking around and getting psyched and groping holds. I had to make sure only to bring my camera, and not climbing shoes because my self control is non existent.
Highlights of the day:
-Checking out the Pollengrains and the Get Carter boulder.
-Standing at the bottom of some of the most classic and inspiring lines in America such as Jedi Mind Tricks, Suspended in Silence, Evilution, and Ambrosia.
Lib being completely unimpressed with Lucid Dreaming.
HP40 invades Bishop!
Day 4:
Kind of a bummer day. Woke up to a ferocious wind beating on the tent. A storm from the night before was lingering in the Sierras leaving the Buttermilks wet and miserable. We met up with a good buddy of ours from Chicago and decided to have an active rest day seeking shelter in the Sads.
I worked on Beefy Gecko, Los Locos, and flashed the classic Shizaam, however my mind was elsewhere, and we all knew we were just killing time. Here are a couple shots Mike Chung snapped of me on Los Locos.
Crossing to the pinch.
Entering the crux.
Day 5:
Buttermilks!
We had a full on 8 hour session at the Milks. It was cold and windy, but I'll be damned if it wasn't dry enough to get some work done. First and foremost I wanted to get on High Plains Drifter. After numbing out and blowing the flash I felt the blood enter my fingers and it was just enough to carry me to the top. This climb is undoubtedly classic, but it is so much more. This is without a doubt the best V7 I have ever done and likely one of my top 5 favorite boulder problems. If you can climb the grade and you are in Bishop do yourself a favor and get on it.
Next up, Evilution to the Lip. The full line is, as the guidebook says, probably one of the best lines anywhere. Until I am strong (read: crazy) enough to even attempt it I was psyched to get on the steep belly. The movement is great and the holds are all there, but the line managed to escape me this trip. One of the biggest cruxes is finding enough pads!
Speaking of which big thanks to the Washington crew for donating some foam to the pit.
Setting up for the big move... Photo: Liberty Herring.
Catching some air. Photo: Liberty Herring.
By the time I had hogged half the day Lib was ready to work Cave Route. This line doesn't get the attention or status of other lines in the Buttermilks, but it is definitely worth doing. If you're there and you're bored you can try One Mule Wonder as well. It's definitely not worth 10 points, but it does have a couple hard moves on it.
Lib on Cave Route.
We finished up the day as the sun fell behind the Sierras, thinking we would cool down on the classic Green Wall Essential. The climb turned out to be pretty stout for the grade, and whether we were tired or just bad at vert climbing, it didn't feel like a cool down.
That said it was a great finish to a great day at the Buttermilks.
Day 6:
Active rest day. It looked like a patch of weather was heading our way so we decided to climb a bit at the Happies. We warmed up slowly, our skin screaming on every crimp. I managed to crank out Action Figure and didn't see the appeal.
Lib tried Groundwater again, but the skin just wasn't there.
Lib on Groundwater.
We walked over to the Slow Dance cave and saw some people working the recently (2008) established Standing Kill Order and Kill On Sight. The movement looked really fun and I decided to work in with the group. One of the guys wound up giving me some good beta for the stand, and I managed to put together a line called Dance the Night Away. This line gets 11 points in the guidebook, which is absurd. I was sore, feeling pretty weak, my skin was in bad shape, and I finished this line faster than Acid Wash. It is a couple hard moves into a V3. I am not sure how hard it really is, but after thinking about general difficulty of other things I have done it seems to fit in the V7 range.
That said the movement on this prow got me totally energized, and I decided to call it a day and save skin for the next day.
Day 7:
Split day between the Buttermilks and the Happies. It was cold. Run around the boulder in your puffy until you can feel your fingers cold. Lib gave a few really solid attempt on Howard Carter Sit Start and Cave Route, but the route she was really invested in, Fly Boy Arete, was covered in ice!
"Ice on my proj? WTF?!"
At the Happies I was psyched on Standing Kill Order. After getting some feeling to my fingers I began to warm up on the moves slowly. The climb boils down to one very hard tension move off the ground that requires all points to align and work together perfectly in order to pull it off. The move is like none I have ever practiced, and yet it felt right up my alley. Bearing down on a toe hook, gripping a wide pinch, and standing off a glassy pimple while holding tight enough to release a left hand to an undercling sidepull edge at full extension. Perfect.
I was happy to make quick progress on the move, and before long I was stopping briefly on it and holding weight. From there the pressure was off and I felt like if I stuck that move then I could get to the top. Luckily, I stuck the move within the next few goes, crimped the hell out of the sidepull undercling, and fought to the top, nearly blowing it on every move.
It was a great accomplishment, and felt incredibly rewarding to be on top of that boulder.
Finally sticking the crux on Standing Kill Order, V11. Photo Liberty Herring.
With the sun setting on our day and our trip I ran a couple victory laps on Heavenly Path. Lib proceeded to make short work of the entire Slap Happy boulder, flashing everything she touched.
On our way out I decided to stop and try the moves on Kill On Sight, the full value sit start to the line I had just done. The sit adds roughly five movements (including a tough toe hook placement) and climbs so wonderfully that I would just sit and stare at the boulder between burns. Just before calling it a day I was able to link into the crux move of the stand from the sit, effectively breaking down the climb into two halves. I couldn't believe it.
Day 8:
My psych was through the roof. I barely slept, tips sweating from thinking about sending the hardest climb I had ever tried. Unfortunately the weather had other plans. It was raining, cold, and the wind was howling. Still, I had to see for myself.
Nearly running up the hill to the Happies I had a faint hope that the overhanging prow would still be dry. Turning the corner into the cave I saw the climb. The bottom was dry, the middle holds and the pinch untouched, but then I saw the drops. Big drops falling off the final slopers. The top was completely soaked. Without even touching the holds I turned and headed back down the trail to the car, and back to Portland.
-BLOCHEAD
Day 1 :
Enduring a little over half the drive (10 hours) in constant rain we stopped in the Tahoe area for the night. The next morning we drove the remaining 6 hours and reached The Pit in the early afternoon. After setting up our home for the next week we decided to get in some bonus climbing at the Happies.
Psyched!
Home sweet home.It was warm in the canyon, but the sun was beginning to drop and to our surprise we had the area nearly to ourselves. I was just hoping to switch gears from plastic to real rock and warmed up slowly, running the obligatory lap on Heavenly Path, arguably the best V1 on the planet.
Fleeing the shadows on Heavenly Path, V1. Photo: Liberty Herring.After walking around and reacquainting myself with the classics I decided to hop on Disco Diva, a problem I had worked on the previous year without success. After a couple warm up burns relearning the movement I was stunned to find myself at the top of the boulder. So much for unfinished business.
As far as I was concerned that was a good first day and I was happy spotting Lib as she almost flashed Groundwater, V5. The fatigue from the trip was slowly starting to set in, and after the Groundwater session we were talking about calling it a night, however Lib convinced me to jump on Acid Wash just to try it. This climb was one of my trip goals, and I was really psyched to try it, but skeptical as to how well I would perform. By now the sun was barely flickering over the west rim. The air cooling off and settling in for the night.
We walked up to the problem thew down a few pads with a guy from Brazil, furiously working on pulling out a send before he left the next morning. The psych was high, and before long I had my shoes laced and my hands on the start holds. My flash burn brought me all the way to the final hard move, a full extension bump off a poor sloping hold. My fingers grazed the final incut hold, but I wound up on the foam instead of the top.
Though I didn't flash, I was beyond motivated. This thing was going to go! My excitement got the best of me for the next hour as I struggled to get back to the crux, but as the headlamps came out and the sluggishness set in like a big meal I managed to stick the final hard move from the beginning and hung on all the way up, topping out in complete darkness save the light from my headlamp and a bright half moon.
Day 2:
My unofficial goal for the trip was to send something V8 or harder. With the pressure off we headed out to the Sads. Lib had tried the classic Anti-Hero last year and was ready for a rematch with the beautiful overhanging problem.
After working out all the movement, a series of big powerful moves to positive holds to a very core and bicep heavy undercling crux that left her stretched to her full extension, Lib was understandably tired. Steep climbing is tricky that way. You have to spend all this energy isolating moves and linking sequences, and by the time you're in redpoint mode there's no gas left.
I experienced the same thing after an hour or so relentlessly working Beefy Gecko later that day. I was more than happy to complete all the individual moves to a V11 in a day, regardless if the only thing I sent was a warm up V3. It's all about the progress.
That night we had some fun with long exposures of the Sierras in the moonlight.
Check out Orion's Belt!Day 3:
Good ol' rest days.Sore muscles and skin made for an obvious rest day. Had we gone to the Buttermilks to climb without fresh skin I'm sure we would have regretted it. Instead we spent the day hiking around and getting psyched and groping holds. I had to make sure only to bring my camera, and not climbing shoes because my self control is non existent.
Highlights of the day:
-Checking out the Pollengrains and the Get Carter boulder.
-Standing at the bottom of some of the most classic and inspiring lines in America such as Jedi Mind Tricks, Suspended in Silence, Evilution, and Ambrosia.
Lib being completely unimpressed with Lucid Dreaming.
HP40 invades Bishop!Day 4:
Kind of a bummer day. Woke up to a ferocious wind beating on the tent. A storm from the night before was lingering in the Sierras leaving the Buttermilks wet and miserable. We met up with a good buddy of ours from Chicago and decided to have an active rest day seeking shelter in the Sads.
I worked on Beefy Gecko, Los Locos, and flashed the classic Shizaam, however my mind was elsewhere, and we all knew we were just killing time. Here are a couple shots Mike Chung snapped of me on Los Locos.
Crossing to the pinch.
Entering the crux.Day 5:
Buttermilks!
We had a full on 8 hour session at the Milks. It was cold and windy, but I'll be damned if it wasn't dry enough to get some work done. First and foremost I wanted to get on High Plains Drifter. After numbing out and blowing the flash I felt the blood enter my fingers and it was just enough to carry me to the top. This climb is undoubtedly classic, but it is so much more. This is without a doubt the best V7 I have ever done and likely one of my top 5 favorite boulder problems. If you can climb the grade and you are in Bishop do yourself a favor and get on it.
Next up, Evilution to the Lip. The full line is, as the guidebook says, probably one of the best lines anywhere. Until I am strong (read: crazy) enough to even attempt it I was psyched to get on the steep belly. The movement is great and the holds are all there, but the line managed to escape me this trip. One of the biggest cruxes is finding enough pads!
Speaking of which big thanks to the Washington crew for donating some foam to the pit.
Setting up for the big move... Photo: Liberty Herring.
Catching some air. Photo: Liberty Herring.By the time I had hogged half the day Lib was ready to work Cave Route. This line doesn't get the attention or status of other lines in the Buttermilks, but it is definitely worth doing. If you're there and you're bored you can try One Mule Wonder as well. It's definitely not worth 10 points, but it does have a couple hard moves on it.
Lib on Cave Route.We finished up the day as the sun fell behind the Sierras, thinking we would cool down on the classic Green Wall Essential. The climb turned out to be pretty stout for the grade, and whether we were tired or just bad at vert climbing, it didn't feel like a cool down.
That said it was a great finish to a great day at the Buttermilks.
Day 6:
Active rest day. It looked like a patch of weather was heading our way so we decided to climb a bit at the Happies. We warmed up slowly, our skin screaming on every crimp. I managed to crank out Action Figure and didn't see the appeal.
Lib tried Groundwater again, but the skin just wasn't there.
Lib on Groundwater.We walked over to the Slow Dance cave and saw some people working the recently (2008) established Standing Kill Order and Kill On Sight. The movement looked really fun and I decided to work in with the group. One of the guys wound up giving me some good beta for the stand, and I managed to put together a line called Dance the Night Away. This line gets 11 points in the guidebook, which is absurd. I was sore, feeling pretty weak, my skin was in bad shape, and I finished this line faster than Acid Wash. It is a couple hard moves into a V3. I am not sure how hard it really is, but after thinking about general difficulty of other things I have done it seems to fit in the V7 range.
That said the movement on this prow got me totally energized, and I decided to call it a day and save skin for the next day.
Day 7:
Split day between the Buttermilks and the Happies. It was cold. Run around the boulder in your puffy until you can feel your fingers cold. Lib gave a few really solid attempt on Howard Carter Sit Start and Cave Route, but the route she was really invested in, Fly Boy Arete, was covered in ice!
"Ice on my proj? WTF?!"At the Happies I was psyched on Standing Kill Order. After getting some feeling to my fingers I began to warm up on the moves slowly. The climb boils down to one very hard tension move off the ground that requires all points to align and work together perfectly in order to pull it off. The move is like none I have ever practiced, and yet it felt right up my alley. Bearing down on a toe hook, gripping a wide pinch, and standing off a glassy pimple while holding tight enough to release a left hand to an undercling sidepull edge at full extension. Perfect.
I was happy to make quick progress on the move, and before long I was stopping briefly on it and holding weight. From there the pressure was off and I felt like if I stuck that move then I could get to the top. Luckily, I stuck the move within the next few goes, crimped the hell out of the sidepull undercling, and fought to the top, nearly blowing it on every move.
It was a great accomplishment, and felt incredibly rewarding to be on top of that boulder.
Finally sticking the crux on Standing Kill Order, V11. Photo Liberty Herring.With the sun setting on our day and our trip I ran a couple victory laps on Heavenly Path. Lib proceeded to make short work of the entire Slap Happy boulder, flashing everything she touched.
On our way out I decided to stop and try the moves on Kill On Sight, the full value sit start to the line I had just done. The sit adds roughly five movements (including a tough toe hook placement) and climbs so wonderfully that I would just sit and stare at the boulder between burns. Just before calling it a day I was able to link into the crux move of the stand from the sit, effectively breaking down the climb into two halves. I couldn't believe it.
Day 8:
My psych was through the roof. I barely slept, tips sweating from thinking about sending the hardest climb I had ever tried. Unfortunately the weather had other plans. It was raining, cold, and the wind was howling. Still, I had to see for myself.
Nearly running up the hill to the Happies I had a faint hope that the overhanging prow would still be dry. Turning the corner into the cave I saw the climb. The bottom was dry, the middle holds and the pinch untouched, but then I saw the drops. Big drops falling off the final slopers. The top was completely soaked. Without even touching the holds I turned and headed back down the trail to the car, and back to Portland.
-BLOCHEAD
Sunday, March 20, 2011
The Actual List
Look for a full post about our Bishop trip in the next few days, but for now here is a list of what I managed to finish this past week:
Standing Kill Order
Acid Wash
Dance The Night Away
One Mule Wonder
Disco Diva
High Plains Drifter
Action Figure
Cave Route
Shizaam
Groundwater
Sunspot Right
Maximum Relaxum
September is Here Again
Green Wall Essential
Loaded
Perhaps the best problem I climbed on, though sadly not on the send list, was Evilution (to the lip). Although I will probably never top this boulder out the movement is amazing and the face inspiring. Next time!
-BLOCHEAD
Standing Kill Order
Acid Wash
Dance The Night Away
One Mule Wonder
Disco Diva
High Plains Drifter
Action Figure
Cave Route
Shizaam
Groundwater
Sunspot Right
Maximum Relaxum
September is Here Again
Green Wall Essential
Loaded
Perhaps the best problem I climbed on, though sadly not on the send list, was Evilution (to the lip). Although I will probably never top this boulder out the movement is amazing and the face inspiring. Next time!
-BLOCHEAD
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Wish List
Putting together a list of climbs for a road trip is a funny thing. It reminds me of the detailed lists I used to write to Santa when I was a kid. Of course you put the toys you're pretty sure he'll be able to find, but inevitably you throw in a few that are long shots.
I've learned from previous road trips that the tick list should be nothing more than a condensed guidebook. Since I'll only be in Bishop for a week these are the climbs that I definitely want to spend some energy finding and trying. The great thing about road trips is that even with all the lists and plans I have no idea what will happen. I'm just hoping to climb one new problem each day.
Similar to my lists for Santa there are some safe bets and some long shots.
Buttermilks/Outlaying Areas:
Green Wall Essential
Birthday Direct
Jedi Mind Tricks
Beekeeper's Apprentice
Saigon
Seven Spanish Angels
High Plains Drifter
Center Direct
Evilution (to the lip)
Happies:
Redrum
Disco Diva
Acid Wash
Sads:
Los Locos
Feeding Frenzy
Beefcake
Beefy Gecko
-BLOCHEAD
I've learned from previous road trips that the tick list should be nothing more than a condensed guidebook. Since I'll only be in Bishop for a week these are the climbs that I definitely want to spend some energy finding and trying. The great thing about road trips is that even with all the lists and plans I have no idea what will happen. I'm just hoping to climb one new problem each day.
Similar to my lists for Santa there are some safe bets and some long shots.
Buttermilks/Outlaying Areas:
Green Wall Essential
Birthday Direct
Jedi Mind Tricks
Beekeeper's Apprentice
Saigon
Seven Spanish Angels
High Plains Drifter
Center Direct
Evilution (to the lip)
Happies:
Redrum
Disco Diva
Acid Wash
Sads:
Los Locos
Feeding Frenzy
Beefcake
Beefy Gecko
-BLOCHEAD
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
Dragons
With just a few days left before hitting the road to Bishop this pair arrived just in time. Although the new line up from Five Ten looks interesting I decided to go with the tried and true classic Dragon. Big thanks to Joel Rocha for the amazing customer service, advice and lightning fast replies (seriously, within an hour of sending an email). I can't wait to get these out on some real rock.
-BLOCHEAD
Monday, March 7, 2011
Worst Climbing Video*
Disclaimer: You cannot get these 12 minutes back after watching.
*The author of this video has made it clear that this is not a climbing video so we'll have to keep looking for a new candidate. My apologies to Brandon. I was thrown off by seeing this in the video section of DPM.
-BLOCHEAD
*The author of this video has made it clear that this is not a climbing video so we'll have to keep looking for a new candidate. My apologies to Brandon. I was thrown off by seeing this in the video section of DPM.
-BLOCHEAD
Friday, March 4, 2011
Friday Inspiration
What kind of climbing blog would this be without the obligatory nod to Chris Sharma?
At this point I may have watched every frame of video ever recorded in Bishop, California and uploaded to Youtube/Vimeo. From the dark and grainy work of Thomastyy as he shoots his bro burling out on Beefcake to the time lapse laden postcard shots of Colin Delehanty.
I find myself coming back to videos of Evilution to the Lip. Yes, I know it's a drop off, but there is something about climbing right up the stunning green belly of a boulder the size of a castle that attracts me.
Eventually I found this clip put together by Prana celebrating the legacy of the now 30 year old legend. At the 23 second mark he makes the opening moves to Evilution climb seem... Well, just watch.
Here's to warming up on V10.
-BLOCHEAD
At this point I may have watched every frame of video ever recorded in Bishop, California and uploaded to Youtube/Vimeo. From the dark and grainy work of Thomastyy as he shoots his bro burling out on Beefcake to the time lapse laden postcard shots of Colin Delehanty.
I find myself coming back to videos of Evilution to the Lip. Yes, I know it's a drop off, but there is something about climbing right up the stunning green belly of a boulder the size of a castle that attracts me.
Eventually I found this clip put together by Prana celebrating the legacy of the now 30 year old legend. At the 23 second mark he makes the opening moves to Evilution climb seem... Well, just watch.
Here's to warming up on V10.
-BLOCHEAD
Thursday, March 3, 2011
Gnar Wars
How long until we start seeing some themed climbing vids?
Sending in the Rain
One Pitch over the Cuckoo's Nest
Dr. Sandbag or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Grade
Rebel Without A Cam
I should really stop now.
-BLOCHEAD
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
Bishop!
After a long four months of climbing plastic in one of the rainiest cities in the country my wonderful girlfriend and I are headed down to Bishop for a week of real climbing later this month! Goodbye florescent telephones and baby heads. Goodbye thumping techno music and gym traverses. Hello fresh air, beautiful landscape, and classic movement.
The amazing girl mentioned above even went as far as to buy the second edition guidebook! It's safe to say that my psych right now is high.
-BLOCHEAD
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