Food For Pump

The fickle weather of the Northwest threw a wrench into this weekend's plans for Leavenworth. Stuck in Portland, I have been taking refuge in my staples of plastic pulling, internet, and beer.

While wading through mediocre climbing videos, blogs, training schedules, and nutrition articles I came across an article indirectly dealing with one of the most common, and often overlooked aspects of climbing: being pumped.

After more time wasted on overly scientific explanations of lactic acid, pH balanced diets, and a mess of other things it seemed that the common thread is there are certain basic or alkaline foods that absorb and in theory reduce, lactic acid from reaching your muscles (Read: forearms).

There are lists of these alkaline foods all over the internet, however this article seems to do a decent job of summarizing of the basics. This chart is also a good visual:


I'm not sure how quickly the process works or if it is even applicable to climbing, so I thought to try it out on a few levels specific to the sport over the next month:

1. A large dinner using some of these foods the day before climbing.
2. A smaller meal an hour or so before climbing.
3. Snacking mid-session during a water break.

As with any diet or nutritional advice I'm approaching this with doubt, however boredom and bad weather are powerful allies.

-BLOCHEAD

DPM's Training Issue

Full disclosure. Dead Point Magazine is hit or miss for me. Occasionally I enjoy the interviews or videos from the community, but other times the forums, comments, and even articles are embarrassing.

This month's exploration of training for climbing is the first issue that has warranted re-reading multiple articles. Quality pieces from next generation phenom and youth coach Brian Antheunisse, Steven Edwards, and long time training guru Eric J. Hörst shine through to a level of cohesion normally lacking in the publication. Of course there were the usual pitfalls. Obe Carrion's surface scratching thoughts on music could have been cut and the bit on marijuana and climbing seemed more cover story lure than substance. These snarls aside the fact remains that there are words worth reading and remembering in this month's magazine. If this level of quality can be refined and maintained it could mean DPM is on their way to becoming something more than "that free magazine."

-BLOCHEAD

Happy Tuesday

This has nothing to do with climbing, just a wholesome family wedding photo I took last Halloween.


-BLOCHEAD

Seagull Climbing

Seagull Custom Courier Bags out of Columbus Ohio has been making quality bags for cyclist for nearly a decade. While I was bike messenger in Chicago I used to see them all over. They would pop up as prizes for big city checkpoint races, or flash down the street with tell-tale colors and custom prints.

Recently Seagull has begun to take the same craftsmanship and focus it toward climbing. Using the same custom approach and bombproof materials found in their courier bags they have begun to prototype a few different sizes and styles of chalk bags and chalk pots.

I am really proud to be part of the team as they make their entrance to the climbing world. Their attention to the needs of serious cyclists has no doubt translated into their climbing gear.

The first word that came to mind while looking over these two pieces was durability. The water resistant double stitched Cordora (a material commonly used in messenger bags) is something I have never seen in a chalk bag. As an added layer of strength the chalk pot has a ballistic material bottom sewn in, making strong and firmer, but still pliable when it needs to be folded into a crash pad.

As with their courier bags, Seagull is using a great color palette. Two-tone chalk bags and solid color pots come standard, but they can also fill any custom order. Check out a few of their samples.

Other first impressions:
I found that the fleece lining actually warmed up my hands, a great feature for cold weather climbing.
I could fit both hands into the chalk pot with room to spare.
The medium chalk bag fits a bigger hand perfectly.
The chalk pot will not tip over. It's a tank. Seriously.

I hope to have a more thorough outdoor review once I've broken these two pieces in a little more and run them through the gauntlet. In the mean time I'm psyched that there are some quality climbing goods coming from the Midwest.

-BLOCHEAD

More From Leavenworth

A few pictures from our two days climbing in Central Washington. Areas include Forestland and Mad Meadows.
Icicle Canyon
Slapping the lip on the burly Drill Sargeant.
Feel the Pinch.
Hanging out in the Hanta Cave
Setting up for the crux on Hanta Man.

All photos save the third taken by Liberty Herring.

I can't wait to get back out there. It felt great to touch some real blocs for a change.

-BLOCHEAD

Leavenworth

Here is a little video of Hanta Man from last weekend. This line is a classic in the area, but it's not the most photogenic so the video is really just the first two attempts and then the send. More photos to come.



-BLOCHEAD

Location, Location, Location

When I say it out loud, or write it out like this it seems silly. The same way a word starts to sound less like a word the more you say it. Regardless I find myself coming back to the realization that living within 30 minutes of outdoor climbing is extremely important to me right now.

A decent climate wouldn't hurt either.

Looking ahead I'm beginning to wonder if this isn't just an excuse to keep moving around. I'm not sure what areas with long seasons I would even consider. What world class areas like Bishop and Hueco have in rocks they lack in their respective cities. The same can be said about Las Vegas, and Boulder is so damn cool I'm not sure if I could stand it.

Chattanooga, Flagstaff, and Salt Lake City all seem like they might fit the bill, but I'm sure they have their drawback as well.

All I can say right now is that gym climbing doesn't count for anything, and I need to be around some real rock, wherever that may be.

-BLOCHEAD

The Name Game

Naming things is great, especially when it comes to a new route or boulder that (barring breakage) will be there for a while. Often the boulder will name itself, as was the case with Brevity, a terribly micro-beta intensive one-mover and Yardwork, a problem that I had to hack a bush out while cleaning.

Other problems, however, you have a name in mind. Something that you really want to stick on that rock. It can be funny, vulgar, themed, or random. Here are a few I have saved for that perfect line down the road:

A cave dubbed the 36th Chamber with all Wu themed routes.
Air Raid for a dyno or highball.
The Fridge for a wide compression problem.
Leaving Purgatory or The Waiting Room for a long-term project that finally goes.
After the Fall for something cool...that I fell on a lot.

If you read this blog please feel free to share some sweet names you have brewing. I promise not to steal them...unless they're really good. Ha.

-BLOCHEAD

Leavenworth?

The weekend temperatures at Leavenworth are looking cold (Low 40's), but clear, and I'm restless to get my fingers on some real rock.

Here is a decent video responsible for my sweaty tips:



-BLOCHEAD

The Relic

Someone was seriously going to climb in this harness. I had to stop it. This thing is as old as I am.



-BLOCHEAD

Spittin' Venom Sees Another Ascent

A few weeks ago I saw that someone had commented on my video of Spittin' Venom asking for directions and beta. I think it's awesome when people use resources like blogs and videos to spread info about lesser known problems, and was happy to help out.

A couple days ago they commented again with a link to their own video of the problem. It's feels good to spread the psych a little bit, especially when I climb on plastic every day.

-BLOCHEAD

Like Peanut Butter & Jelly

-BLOCHEAD