Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Nazgul Stand & Wick's Problem (Attempts)
I know, I know. Attempt videos? Well, at least it's better than typed-out beta. I'm also really excited for and proud of Lib for her determination and psych. It's been really inspiring when I approach Wick's.
Also, I can't stress enough how bad the crimp is that Lib's throwing for. When I sent it was hard enough settling one hand on the hold, let alone attempting to match. Brutal!
Four climbing days left in the area before heading south to Tuolumne, Rock Creek, and maybe the Ronin boulder.
Needless to say we're pretty psyched to try as hard as we can with the time we have left!
-BLOCHEAD
Monday, July 25, 2011
Regrowing Skin and Killing Time
After another successful two day stretch climbing at the Saddles our skin and psych needed some time off. Lib has been getting closer on the stand start to Nazgul V9, using some heinous tiny-fingers-can-match-anything beta while I have been hurling myself at the go-go gadget arms opening move of Wick's Problem V11. Our time here in Northern California is drawing to a close, however we do want to make it up to the Sierra Buttes once before hitting the road.
I'm excited to say that I have begun to edit Part 2 of our 5,000 miles project and it's coming along well. When potential footage from Tuolumne, Rock Creek, and Black Mountain is figured in we may have a long second installment!
Hopefully I'll remember to snap a few photos along with all the filming next time we're out at the boulders, but until then here are some of the extreme things we do away from the rocks.
Bocce Ball action shots!
Extreme synchronized icing!
-BLOCHEAD
I'm excited to say that I have begun to edit Part 2 of our 5,000 miles project and it's coming along well. When potential footage from Tuolumne, Rock Creek, and Black Mountain is figured in we may have a long second installment!
Hopefully I'll remember to snap a few photos along with all the filming next time we're out at the boulders, but until then here are some of the extreme things we do away from the rocks.
Bocce Ball action shots!
Extreme synchronized icing!-BLOCHEAD
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Saddle Boulders - Part 2
Bouldering at the Saddles three days in a row tore us up. After a much needed rest day to let the fire in our fingertips cool off and our muscles rebuild we anxiously drove up the hill and through the tunnels for another session.
The first three days my focus had been spread thin over multiple problems. There is just too much quality to stay on one line for long. After warming up on the Black Wall Boulder we dragged the pads around to the shade, setting up to attempt the distinct crimp line Nazgul (V9, 10, or 11 depending where you begin).
This face is one that you might imagine smiling wryly to itself whenever anyone fondles its holds or falls off of it. There are four crimps spaced out evenly and symmetrically in a sea of sheer, featureless granite.
The most obvious starts are the stand start matched on the first horizontal seam and a split hand start beginning with a right hand on the horizontal and a left on a flat undercling.
For full value I had decided earlier in the week to try the split hand start (V10) and was only able to stick the first move once. The tension is powerful and subtle, the feet absolute shit. I had messed around with the stand as well, but was stopped by the lock-off-to-your-waist-and-then-lock-off-further move to the next set of crimps. Nazgul had its laugh that day.
Yesterday however I tried the same start and both the undercling and first crimp felt better, and before I realized how much the razors were digging into my fingers I was letting out a rebel yell for the ending jug, and topping out.
Lib working hard the stand. That next crimp is so damn far away!
After shooting a couple different angles and close-ups we headed over to the Saddle Boulder proper where a few other people were climbing including an old gym climbing partner from Vegas! Small world. The psych was high and before long I was putting on my shoes to try a lower start to Nietzsche Girls which weighs in at around V10, but probably feels easier to the taller folks due to a very stretched out move off a low foot.
Somehow I managed to hold the tension and finished off the problem. We'll definitely be getting some footage of this little classic as well due to a very unique use of a pinch that flips into an undercling. Great movement!
After getting shut down by (but getting closer on!) the tough opening moves of Wick's Problem V11 and Soul Train V10 I gave one end of the day burn on Hobo and managed to get over the flutter in my stomach and commit to a high step move with a lot of air under my feet. Luckily it stuck and I sent. Cheers to rest days!
In short, the Saddles have not disappointed. The secluded setting, the wind in the pines, and the sun filtering through the branches all make for a great atmosphere. If you're ever hesitant to check it out I can definitely say it's worth the atypical approach.
-BLOCHEAD
The first three days my focus had been spread thin over multiple problems. There is just too much quality to stay on one line for long. After warming up on the Black Wall Boulder we dragged the pads around to the shade, setting up to attempt the distinct crimp line Nazgul (V9, 10, or 11 depending where you begin).
This face is one that you might imagine smiling wryly to itself whenever anyone fondles its holds or falls off of it. There are four crimps spaced out evenly and symmetrically in a sea of sheer, featureless granite.
The most obvious starts are the stand start matched on the first horizontal seam and a split hand start beginning with a right hand on the horizontal and a left on a flat undercling.
For full value I had decided earlier in the week to try the split hand start (V10) and was only able to stick the first move once. The tension is powerful and subtle, the feet absolute shit. I had messed around with the stand as well, but was stopped by the lock-off-to-your-waist-and-then-lock-off-further move to the next set of crimps. Nazgul had its laugh that day.
Yesterday however I tried the same start and both the undercling and first crimp felt better, and before I realized how much the razors were digging into my fingers I was letting out a rebel yell for the ending jug, and topping out.
Lib working hard the stand. That next crimp is so damn far away!After shooting a couple different angles and close-ups we headed over to the Saddle Boulder proper where a few other people were climbing including an old gym climbing partner from Vegas! Small world. The psych was high and before long I was putting on my shoes to try a lower start to Nietzsche Girls which weighs in at around V10, but probably feels easier to the taller folks due to a very stretched out move off a low foot.
Somehow I managed to hold the tension and finished off the problem. We'll definitely be getting some footage of this little classic as well due to a very unique use of a pinch that flips into an undercling. Great movement!
After getting shut down by (but getting closer on!) the tough opening moves of Wick's Problem V11 and Soul Train V10 I gave one end of the day burn on Hobo and managed to get over the flutter in my stomach and commit to a high step move with a lot of air under my feet. Luckily it stuck and I sent. Cheers to rest days!
In short, the Saddles have not disappointed. The secluded setting, the wind in the pines, and the sun filtering through the branches all make for a great atmosphere. If you're ever hesitant to check it out I can definitely say it's worth the atypical approach.
-BLOCHEAD
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Saddle Boulders - Open for Business!
After a week of puttering around on the HWY 20 boulder we decided to head up to the Snowshed Boulders to escape the mosquitoes and climb some new problems. To our surprise the snow (that we had previously spent a couple hours shoveling) was gone!
Still skeptical about the rest of the drive up to the Saddles we played it safe and climbed around the Snowshed for a bit before a local informed us that the road was good to go and he was headed there that evening.
We took advantage of the psych and the local beta, driving the next three miles through wet, tagged up train tunnels until emerging on a dirt road along a ridge overlooking Donner Lake.
When we reached the boulders it felt like we had finally made it to the promised land. That old familiar psych began to creep back into me, and I knew we had found our summer spot.
This area is far better than I had hoped. Comfy jug warm ups, crimpy test pieces, longer power endurance hauls, and plenty of tension make for a great place to get back into shape for real boulder problems (i.e. not ridiculously hard one or two movers into V0's) offering a wide range of classics from moderate to project including Midnight Train, a V7 that rivals High Plains Drifter in quality and flow of movement.
With just over two weeks left here and a suddenly a lot of amazing problems to do it's going to be hard to take a rest day.
Which way to the foam party?
Lib on the ever-frustrating Kito Slab V5.
The opening move of both Midnight Train V7 and Hobo V8.
Reeling in the swing.
Heading out right on Hobo.
Ramping up the tension on Nietzsche Girls V9.
-BLOCHEAD
Still skeptical about the rest of the drive up to the Saddles we played it safe and climbed around the Snowshed for a bit before a local informed us that the road was good to go and he was headed there that evening.
We took advantage of the psych and the local beta, driving the next three miles through wet, tagged up train tunnels until emerging on a dirt road along a ridge overlooking Donner Lake.
When we reached the boulders it felt like we had finally made it to the promised land. That old familiar psych began to creep back into me, and I knew we had found our summer spot.
This area is far better than I had hoped. Comfy jug warm ups, crimpy test pieces, longer power endurance hauls, and plenty of tension make for a great place to get back into shape for real boulder problems (i.e. not ridiculously hard one or two movers into V0's) offering a wide range of classics from moderate to project including Midnight Train, a V7 that rivals High Plains Drifter in quality and flow of movement.
With just over two weeks left here and a suddenly a lot of amazing problems to do it's going to be hard to take a rest day.
Which way to the foam party?
Lib on the ever-frustrating Kito Slab V5.
The opening move of both Midnight Train V7 and Hobo V8.
Reeling in the swing.
Heading out right on Hobo.
Ramping up the tension on Nietzsche Girls V9.-BLOCHEAD
Monday, July 11, 2011
HWY 20 - Roadside Boulder
Since our last epic adventure we've actually managed to finish a couple boulder problems! Driving down HWY 20 we raced past a huge bloc that demanded we stop, turn around, and give it a once over. Sitting a mere 50 feet off the road it doesn't have the most ambient setting, though we were impressed by the quality and the height. The boulder also featured a small bulge that looked like it could yield some promising low starts. There was a small amount of chalk on the boulder, and therefore first ascents were out of the question, but I am still curious to know if some of the lower starts have been done and if any of these problems have names.
Yesterday evening we made the drive out to climb the boulder, where I was happy to scope out a nice logical line starting from the bottom left side of the boulder and trending right and up the steepest part of the face. The beta I used made for a really enjoyable compression line with big moves to flat sidepull edges. Grading is becoming more and more of a mystery to me, though it felt somewhere in the 9 range...
Setting up for the big throw out right.
Stretched out, setting up for the tough come in move to an edge.
I also looked at a line that went straight up the belly, starting low on a bad sloper and a sidepull, and though I messed around with a few options I wasn't able to unlock the full line. From a standing position I was able to start off slightly better opposing sidepull edges with off balanced feet and chuck to a flat edge over the bulge. My feet cut and it was all I could do to hold on to the top. Again, I was happy to find the stand harder than I thought (around 8 points probably) so the sit will no doubt be TOUGH! More photos of this line to come...
But by far the best part of this roadside boulder is that it has nice warm ups and moderate variations from V0-V3.
A nice moderate line up the middle of the face.
-BLOCHEAD
Yesterday evening we made the drive out to climb the boulder, where I was happy to scope out a nice logical line starting from the bottom left side of the boulder and trending right and up the steepest part of the face. The beta I used made for a really enjoyable compression line with big moves to flat sidepull edges. Grading is becoming more and more of a mystery to me, though it felt somewhere in the 9 range...
Setting up for the big throw out right.
Stretched out, setting up for the tough come in move to an edge.I also looked at a line that went straight up the belly, starting low on a bad sloper and a sidepull, and though I messed around with a few options I wasn't able to unlock the full line. From a standing position I was able to start off slightly better opposing sidepull edges with off balanced feet and chuck to a flat edge over the bulge. My feet cut and it was all I could do to hold on to the top. Again, I was happy to find the stand harder than I thought (around 8 points probably) so the sit will no doubt be TOUGH! More photos of this line to come...
But by far the best part of this roadside boulder is that it has nice warm ups and moderate variations from V0-V3.
A nice moderate line up the middle of the face.-BLOCHEAD
Friday, July 8, 2011
Shoveling Snow in July & Other Epic Tales of Bouldering Addiction
Well, my motivation took a blow yesterday when after meticulously following directions and mile markers to the Saddle Boulders the guidebook warned us of a seasonal stream running through an old train tunnel we were supposed to drive through. Here is what the seasonal stream turned out to look like:
More like full blown river.
Though we were bummed while backtracking the endless dirt roads there was still one other option. A 3.5 mile drive through a series of abandoned train tunnels. There was just one problem. At the end of the first tunnel we found this:
In true boulder junkie fashion, we brought snow shovels and proceeded to dig away at the dirt snow/ice bank for two hours until a group of people on ATV's drove up and informed us that there were no less than three more snow drifts after this one. With a twist of the knife they added that they were bigger as well.
In short, we left just after noon, and by the time we reversed a quarter mile out of the tunnel it was nearly 6 PM. We hadn't touched a single rock, and with the reality that probably the best bouldering area was going to be inaccessible our spirits were running low.
We also realized that with the Ronin Boulder nearly 3 hours away it looks like we'll be spending most of our time either scouring Highway 20 for new or obscure lines, or spending most of our time at Rainbow. Again if anyone has any leads on bouldering areas around here feel free to share. The psyche is still high, because after all it's still real rock. It just looks like we'll have to get a little creative.
-BLOCHEAD
More like full blown river. Though we were bummed while backtracking the endless dirt roads there was still one other option. A 3.5 mile drive through a series of abandoned train tunnels. There was just one problem. At the end of the first tunnel we found this:
In true boulder junkie fashion, we brought snow shovels and proceeded to dig away at the dirt snow/ice bank for two hours until a group of people on ATV's drove up and informed us that there were no less than three more snow drifts after this one. With a twist of the knife they added that they were bigger as well.
In short, we left just after noon, and by the time we reversed a quarter mile out of the tunnel it was nearly 6 PM. We hadn't touched a single rock, and with the reality that probably the best bouldering area was going to be inaccessible our spirits were running low.
We also realized that with the Ronin Boulder nearly 3 hours away it looks like we'll be spending most of our time either scouring Highway 20 for new or obscure lines, or spending most of our time at Rainbow. Again if anyone has any leads on bouldering areas around here feel free to share. The psyche is still high, because after all it's still real rock. It just looks like we'll have to get a little creative.
-BLOCHEAD
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Northern California - SO PSYCHED!
After a grueling 14 hour drive from Seattle I am happy to say we made it safely to Northern California. We'll be house sitting here in Grass Valley for about a month while we explore some of the finest granite boulders in the area. If you happen to stumble across this blog and you're a local (or know some cool spots) feel free to recommend some must-do lines. So far we're excited to check out the Saddle Boulders and the Ronin boulder.
It also doesn't hurt that we had two pads stashed here, so in addition to the two we lugged from the NW we'll be ready for some fun off the deck!
Woo Bouldering!
-BLOCHEAD
It also doesn't hurt that we had two pads stashed here, so in addition to the two we lugged from the NW we'll be ready for some fun off the deck!
Woo Bouldering!-BLOCHEAD
Monday, July 4, 2011
5,000 Miles - Part 1: Leavenworth, WA
Happy Fourth of July! We're here in Seattle visiting some of our friends and relaxing before saying goodbye to the Northwest and hello to a 13 hour drive to Northern California.
In the meantime here is the first segment from the Leavenworth leg of our extended road trip!
Problems Featured:
Drugstore Cowboy V3
The Hourglass V7
Sitting Bull V3
Resurrection V8
Gatorade Bowling Balls V4
Goicoechea V9
The Real Thing V4
The Sail V9
The Footless Traverse V5
Sunny and Steep V2
Busted V8
God is in the Details V12
There are so many amazing problems in Leavenworth, and although I can see myself missing the setting, people, and the unique nature of the boulders, the heat is driving us to higher elevations and I am getting really excited to see what Tahoe has to offer!
-BLOCHEAD
In the meantime here is the first segment from the Leavenworth leg of our extended road trip!
Problems Featured:
Drugstore Cowboy V3
The Hourglass V7
Sitting Bull V3
Resurrection V8
Gatorade Bowling Balls V4
Goicoechea V9
The Real Thing V4
The Sail V9
The Footless Traverse V5
Sunny and Steep V2
Busted V8
God is in the Details V12
There are so many amazing problems in Leavenworth, and although I can see myself missing the setting, people, and the unique nature of the boulders, the heat is driving us to higher elevations and I am getting really excited to see what Tahoe has to offer!
-BLOCHEAD
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