A Change of Scenery

Before
After

60 boulder fresh boulder problems set in 2 1/2 days. Covered and ready to be unveiled this evening.



-BLOCHEAD

Happy Thanksgiving!

-BLOCHEAD

Customer Service: The Standard

A couple days ago I posted a photo of my Frankenstein shoes. I had a good suggestion from Evolv athlete Isaac Palatt to email the photo to the customer service department. I shot them an email not thinking much of it, however when I checked my inbox just a few HOURS later I received this message:

Solid repair job, that photo is going up on our wall here! Where are you located? I am going to get those replaced for you.

Jeff Kenyon

This is the definition of customer service. I was thoroughly impressed, and look forward to spreading the good word about the folks over at Evolv.

-BLOCHEAD

On Placing Plastic

When I first began setting I was simply trying to get out of paying for the gym. I was there damn near everyday and as a college student eating oatmeal for every meal I couldn't afford it. At first I knew next to nothing, which was fine because no one at the gym knew any better. I set two types of routes in the beginning: warm ups and projects. It would be a long time before I learned to fill in the gaps.

We were allowed to name our problems so I made a huge collection of book titles with climbing puns, thinking I was so clever. I would sit in class thinking about names like James and the Giant Reach, The Old Mantle and the Sea, or a traverse I could call On the Road. It was fun, I was climbing for free, and before long I was setting nearly two-thirds of the bouldering in the gym.

It wasn't long before I sought steeper angles and changed gyms. A small basement of a gymnastics studio, the space was limited but the motivation was through the roof. I found out early on that anyone could set, and I began setting recreationally until picking up a shift. Looking back I realize that I have been drawn to setting nearly as long as I have been climbing, though I never saw a future or a way to make a living through wrenching.

Today, under the scrutiny (and payroll) of a serious gym (read: not a basement) I realize the power of course setting. I read more about career setters such as Jackie Hueftle and Jamie Emerson and actually catch myself daydreaming about setting for big events.

In trying reach the core of what drives me to set I have a few scribbles to share:

The ability to encourage and force movement is borderline Jedi. When done perfectly it seems downright illegal.

I have always prized movement above all. I would gladly climb any amount of choss if there is fluidity.

Simulating outdoor problems on plastic is a wonderful mash of ideas and memory that almost always comes out unique. If you asked 100 people to set a simulation of a classic problem from memory it seems likely that you would get 100 different routes.

The idea that someone can set a seemingly unique route in a gym, then some time later climb a problem outside that mimics that movement is astounding. Is gym climbing broadening the imagination of outdoor developers? If so then you could be subconsciously setting a future outdoor project. Whoa.

-BLOCHEAD

My Beautiful Dark and Twisted Fantasy

No, this isn't a site for music reviews. Leave that to these guys. I can say that I am psyched as hell to listen to this album while setting this morning. That's climbing related right?

-BLOCHEAD

Devolv?

I was cinching down my shoes the other day and the strap broke! I've never had part of the shoe wear out before the rubber. I've only been wearing them since early April. Luckily the staple job held up for last night's session because I can't afford to spring for a new pair.

-BLOCHEAD

Thank You

Yesterday I received a message that my blog had been quoted by ClimbingNarc.com. I could not believe it. I had not updated in over a week, and what I had written was about climbing with my mom.

When I read Narc's post about climbing alone, and found that the quote was from a post buried months ago I was beyond impressed. When I started this blog I looked to sites such as climbingnarc.com as something to emulate. Regular updates, a proper mix of editorial and journalistic writing style, and a slightly irreverent insight. If somehow this site has escaped you pay him a visit. He is doing great things for the climbing community.

On a personal note I would like to thank Climbing Narc for the nod. It absolutely made my week.

-BLOCHEAD

The Rain, The Road, and 4 Backpacks

Ten days ago I moved to a new state with four backpacks. 90% of what I packed fit in these two:

Beginning with a ten hour drive, the rain began shortly after crossing the state line, and has hardly let up.

This is a great way to live. I feel stronger mentally, or at least I will looking back. It is revitalizing to shatter the routine I built for myself in Las Vegas.

Here are a few photos:







The Sun!

To those still reading, thank you. And until I find a place I'll be sure to keep you posted on living the dream from a basement in Portland.

-BLOCHEAD

Leaving Las Vegas

Mom Power!

I went out to the boulders for one last session yesterday with my Mom. We hiked around a bit, I repeated a few of my favorite lines, and Madre even jumped up on a couple blocs. It's a shame to leave right when the season is starting, but I will surely be back to try old projects and explore new lines in the future.

-BLOCHEAD

Vallée de Feu

Yesterday I shot my last wedding in Las Vegas before moving to Oregon. As a climber I feel a deep connection to the outdoors, rocky landscapes, and mountain ranges. That said it was an absolute pleasure to shoot this attractive young couple from Montreal in a dramatic setting like Valley of Fire. A great end to a crazy, interesting, hilarious, stressful, and overall completely unique job.




-BLOCHEAD

Ivan Bunin

Ivan Bunin (1870-1953) is commonly thought to be the best Russian short story writer that you have never heard of. The first Russian to win the Nobel Prize for Literature (1933), Bunin was the elegy of a Golden Era of Russian writers in the 19th century.

Though living in a country where the novel is king, Bunin, along with contemporary Anton Chekhov began to revolutionize short fiction, giving way to a surge of 20th Century short story writers not only in the Motherland, but in mainland Europe and the United States as well.

From extended short stories such as The Gentleman from San Francisco to two or three paragraph vignettes like Cranes and Calf's Head Bunin's style can seem at times erratic, however each story is threaded together with a distinct gossamer unique only to Ivan Bunin.

I highly recommend these five stories as an introduction:

The Gentleman from San Francisco
Light Breathing
Cranes
Rusya
Sunstroke

-BLOCHEAD

PBRBor Day

Not only did someone have to come up with this idea, but someone else likely had to approve it, then get another group of people to turn this into a real thing.

-BLOCHEAD

Slice N Dice

A rare thing happened while topping out Slice N Dice this morning: complete focus. The crux of this line (up the center north (shaded) face of the boulder, just to the left of the long white streak) is low, however the top out includes high steps and long reaches that demand full attention and commitment.

While looking down for a foot on the send go I realized that I was topping out over completely exposed ground, but instead of downclimbing I took a deep breath and was surprised to find my body at ease, honing in on just my foot and hand placement, trusting the rock.

Once on the top however the reality of the situation settled in and I felt heavy breath in my chest, and a jittery feeling in my arms.

Upon safely returning to solid ground I looked up and couldn't believe what had just happened. I had never seen anyone top this boulder out, and went into the upper moves blindly. Luckily it worked out.

This is far and away the tallest boulder I have climbed alone. Though I don't see myself pushing much further than I did today, I see the appeal and satisfaction such efforts, and respect those who seek them out.

-BLOCHEAD

Keep Out of Reach of Children

Keep Out of Reach of Children V7 Calico Basin, Las Vegas, NV from BLOCHEAD on Vimeo.

I'm not really in love with this video, but it was fun to make. It's hard to shoot a two move problem.

View in a larger format here.

-BLOCHEAD

Spittin' Venom

I made it out to the Kraft boulders today for the first time since May. With only a week left in Las Vegas I have a short list of lines I hope to finish before taking off. Spittin' Venom is a fairly new line put up last winter by Andrew Spencer. It starts on two decent flat edges and moves up through a small, painful razor blade. The crux revolves around establishing and yarding off this blade.

I also put up what is likely a new line up the arete to the right of Spittin' Venom. Starting on two small crimps and awkward feet it boils down to biting into the start holds, pasting feet and lurching to a finger bucket. I thought it would be over after this, however the swing quickly became the crux. Once the movement became familiar it was actually fun, but far from classic.

The name Keep Out of Reach of Children seemed to fit, and probably weighs in around V7.

Spittin' Venom V9, Calico Basin, Las Vegas, NV from BLOCHEAD on Vimeo.

View in a larger format here.

-BLOCHEAD